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Post by chummer16 on Feb 9, 2017 8:29:17 GMT -6
Anyone have any luck in zone 3-4. I consider these every year but talk myself out of it because zone 4 stuff doesn't always survive in my area. The bulk of plantings were done before the two coldest winters on record so my results may be off a bit. I have a buddy that has planted a bunch in zone 4/5 and they have done well.
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Post by smsmith on Feb 9, 2017 8:30:48 GMT -6
Anyone have any luck in zone 3-4. No Forum member wildfire has had some success with them about 90 minutes SE of me Forum member NHmtns has had success with them in New Hampshire, I think zone 4b?
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Post by kabic on Feb 9, 2017 9:16:39 GMT -6
I let you know in the spring. It kind of looks like something ate this one, but not sure how since it is caged and screened. I guess they could have tunneled under or maybe climbed the screen and enter from the top Here is the other I have planted
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Post by nhmountains on Feb 9, 2017 9:21:55 GMT -6
Chummer,
I'd plant them at home in rootrapper 5 or 7 gallon bags and keep them at home for two years. Then plant them on your land. That'll give them some girth before they are in the wild.
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Post by chummer16 on Feb 9, 2017 11:01:58 GMT -6
How cold do you guys get. Their website says they only survive -20. I am sure they go a little conservative on that. The coldest I have seen at my place is -38. Last year we only had a couple -20's. This year I am not sure if we have been below -5. Maybe I will try a couple and hope global warming continues.
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Post by smsmith on Feb 9, 2017 11:50:56 GMT -6
-20 is zone 5a I believe
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Post by nhmountains on Feb 9, 2017 11:57:22 GMT -6
Mine have survived -30 but, I think there are variables like if there's a lot of warm ups and cold spells back to back. Or how early the fall frosts hit and early spring war ups followed by a cold spell. No matter what you do there may be tip dieback in the north since the chestnuts don't harden off like oaks do. I suggested you keep them at home to pamper them to put on the girth. That should help with them surviving the colder temps more snow than anything.
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Post by smsmith on Feb 9, 2017 11:59:32 GMT -6
I think soil moisture levels going into fall/winter play a role in hardiness as well.
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Post by jbird on Feb 9, 2017 12:41:38 GMT -6
Sorry - I have had good luck with mine thus far - but I'm much further south......so my opinion doesn't matter.
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Post by smsmith on Feb 9, 2017 12:44:14 GMT -6
I think northerners would be better off experimenting with the cold hardy Chinese chestnuts from Red Fern Farm instead of Dunstans.
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Post by chummer16 on Feb 9, 2017 15:07:24 GMT -6
I think northerners would be better off experimenting with the cold hardy Chinese chestnuts from Red Fern Farm instead of Dunstans. I will check them out. Did SNL ever have Chestnuts before the sold. There must be some treasures still kicking around that place.
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Post by nhmountains on Feb 12, 2017 16:36:58 GMT -6
Chummer, I'd send an email to Greg Miller at Empire Chestnut in Ohio and see what he thinks about your area. He's got connections and knowledge and should be honest with you. I'm guessing with my Dunstans overall I'm getting a 20-30% survival after rate after 2-3 years but, that's with leaving them unprotected. I've had better luck with cages and aluminum window screen than tubes. I'm guessing my oldest which are actual seedlings from Chestnut Hill in Florida are going to produce burs and catkins this year. They are planted on a north facing slope and initially were in a lower light location. I think early spring thaws can cause damage to chestnuts when followed by a cold snap. Do this 4-5 times each spring and there'll be dieback. I think tubes may mimic this and cause issues when in full light when they are younger So my theory was to lessen the spring thaw effect and keep them more dormant until true spring. It's worked except they don't grow as fast as others. They were planted spring of 2011. They are now 8' with good girth. I kept them low light for 3 years while their roots got planted. Then opened a little in 2014 and more in 2015. This should be the year they take off I hope. I gave a friend some that produced catkins and burs after 3 years but, it was in full sun and more south of mine. If I were you I'd either plant seeds or buy bare root and get 10-15. Baby them at home one year. Clear a spot. Get cages and plenty window screen and plant them after babying them for a year or even two. I wouldn't tube. As for your deep snows that may cause lower limbs to be broken off as the leaves may allow more snow and ice to attach and rip them when it clings. www.empirechestnut.com/catalog.htm
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Post by nhmountains on Feb 12, 2017 16:39:41 GMT -6
Also, with that deep snow pack that might lessen the effects of the cold as it must insulate the roots and trunk from the extreme cold. Make sure you mention your snow totals to him as I think snow damage may be more an issue than cold.
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Post by nhmountains on Feb 12, 2017 19:00:24 GMT -6
Here's the Dunstan I gave to a friend. It was grown from seed and had burs on the third year. I'm not sure how it did in 2016.
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Post by chummer16 on Feb 12, 2017 19:38:25 GMT -6
Great info I will send him an email. My concern with all these plantings of border line zones is the risk of a complete failure and wasted space and time. There is a reason no oaks grow here either. I planted a bunch of 15-20 tall but oaks 4 years ago and while they are still alive they are the same size as when I planted them. They only nut that produces in my area is beeche, about every 5 years. I would love to find a chestnut that survives to go with some hazelnuts that seem to be doing well. Hazelnuts are loaded with catkin this year, hopefully nuts next year. That is awesome how you planted them on a north slope, I have thought about doing that with apples to hopefully delay flowering. I need to buy an extra two week on my apple blossoms to greatly increase the odds of missing frost.
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