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Post by kooch on Apr 27, 2019 7:58:13 GMT -6
I'm not going to drill a well. I don't like to drive down to the neighbor and beg to fill cans from his hose. But, I need water for spraying plots. Right now I drag 5 gallon jugs that I fill at home, but that's just lame.
After my stunning success re-wiring the pump on my sprayer the other day, I think I'm going to give a 12v pump a try this year. I'll strain at the pointy end of the hose, and maybe add a coarse filter at the other end. I have two sources available. 1. The little creek that runs out of my swamp, runs under the road, and drains into the river. 2. The river, which I'm pretty sure I can access through my neighbor's place if I just ask.
I plan to mix the same glyphosate/2,4-d/AMS mix for the first spraying. For the second spraying, it's just the gly and the AMS and I'll plant the next day. I'll spray half with my current clean soft water, and the other half with the river water to see if there's a difference. I could use advice here.
1. I'm told organic matter and dirt in the water can bind with the glyphosate and render it less effective - need to strain and filter. But, how much is too much? 2. Chunks of crap and even fine silt in the water can clog the pump and spray nozzles. Need to strain and filter. But how anal do I really need to be? 3. Do any of you pump river or creek water and use it for spraying? If so tell me your routine.
Also, as I sit and type this, I came up with a new idea. Instead of getting an entire new pump for this, I wonder if I can somehow FILL my spray tank with the attached pump by simply disconnecting the hoses and connecting new, reversing the flow. I'll have to look at this while my sprayer is here at home.
Anyway, I'm considering getting a 12v marine pump and some hose, connecting a strainer of some sort at the river end, and another filter of some sort at the terminal end. Fun project.
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Post by biglakebass on Apr 27, 2019 8:16:45 GMT -6
I used t o use pond water until Mo educated me.
I only use well water now and results are much better on kill.
He can explain why.
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Post by kooch on Apr 27, 2019 8:18:47 GMT -6
That's what I'm worried about. But a well just isn't in the budget.
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Post by biglakebass on Apr 27, 2019 8:27:35 GMT -6
I got a 250 gallon poly tank. Fill that and bring out.
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Post by biglakebass on Apr 27, 2019 8:29:23 GMT -6
Should say i go to a farm down the road and use his well on his feedlot. I am hauling a half mile.
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Post by kooch on Apr 27, 2019 8:43:21 GMT -6
Problem solved. I texted a guy I know up there. He told me to "just use the well water at the abandoned homestead at such and such a place that's what everybody else does." I asked, "Are you sure I won't get shot?" He said, "Nope. We all use it." He told me how to find it and asked me to just keep the location to myself. It's pretty close to my place.
JPS dudes, coming through for the city idiot again.
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Post by Foggy on Apr 27, 2019 9:49:22 GMT -6
I used pond water the first year we had our place.....and had some issues with my sprayer as noted above. Then, I hauled water for a year or two. Finally I drove a sand point well.....and have never looked back. The well was pretty easy to do as I used an electric jack hammer to pound the pipe. Even my wife could run the jack hammer. I suppose I spent about $500 with the pump and all. Not sure about your situation.....but much of northern MN is sand point well country. Edit: I was just reflecting on my sand point well experience. I used a vacuum cleaner to make a starter hole about the diameter of the vacuum hose.....and about 5 feet deep. I made a saw-tooth end on a plastic pipe.....and just rotated it against the ground with my shop vac hooked onto the pipe. In a few minutes I had a 3" diameter hole about 5 feet deep. Easy peasy. That made it easy to rig up my well pipe to pound the pipe into the ground with the jack hammer from the rental store. Of course dont tell this to SD......as none of this would work with solar power. HUGE GRIN . Since then.....I've used that vacuum idea a few times to make a hole in the ground. Pretty slick.....if you have sandy soils.
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Post by kooch on Apr 27, 2019 10:33:08 GMT -6
What kind of soil do you have foggy? Mine is thick fine clay and I don't know how far down it goes. But I can't imagine the sand point working well unless I could get below it.
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Post by kabic on Apr 27, 2019 10:33:59 GMT -6
Could you collect rain water and use that to spray? A gutter and down spout into one of those big totes, with some kind of overflow mechanism to divert excess water away.
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Post by kooch on Apr 27, 2019 10:39:18 GMT -6
Could you collect rain water and use that to spray? A gutter and down spout into one of those big totes, with some kind of overflow mechanism to divert excess water away. That is indeed an option. 100 gallons or so in a tank tucked in behind the shabin with gutters draining into it might work just fine. Also, with some filtering and little bit of chlorine, cold be drinking water.
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Post by Foggy on Apr 27, 2019 17:29:08 GMT -6
What kind of soil do you have foggy? Mine is thick fine clay and I don't know how far down it goes. But I can't imagine the sand point working well unless I could get below it. Most of the soils in central MN are sand. Usually a little sandy loam on the surface....then nothing but sand and or rock for the next 50+ feet. Sand will vacuum.....clay will not. Sand lets water pass thru.....clay will not. Two different animals.
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Post by kooch on Apr 27, 2019 17:56:46 GMT -6
What kind of soil do you have foggy? Mine is thick fine clay and I don't know how far down it goes. But I can't imagine the sand point working well unless I could get below it. Most of the soils in central MN are sand. Usually a little sandy loam on the surface....then nothing but sand and or rock for the next 50+ feet. Sand will vacuum.....clay will not. Sand lets water pass thru.....clay will not. Two different animals. I've got some loam on the surface then 4-6" down it's clay, like the kind you'd put on a potter's wheel. I've only dug about two feet down, so I'm not sure how thick the clay layer is. I'm not optimistic about a sand point though.
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Post by Foggy on Apr 27, 2019 18:04:43 GMT -6
Most of the soils in central MN are sand. Usually a little sandy loam on the surface....then nothing but sand and or rock for the next 50+ feet. Sand will vacuum.....clay will not. Sand lets water pass thru.....clay will not. Two different animals. I've got some loam on the surface then 4-6" down it's clay, like the kind you'd put on a potter's wheel. I've only dug about two feet down, so I'm not sure how thick the clay layer is. I'm not optimistic about a sand point though. I bet your ground holds allot of water on the top surface. I can have a 3" downpour.....and two hours later I can be plowing or tilling the soil.....it's unreal. I come from southern MN....and the heavy clay soils there are entirely different than the sands of No Central MN. Sometimes you will find pockets of different soils on the land. The county soils maps in Crow Wing and in Cass Counties are quite useful to find the soil types. I'm always amazed at the information available on the interwebs.
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Post by benmnwi on Apr 27, 2019 19:22:50 GMT -6
You can look up the soils for your property online and it will tell which soils are found at different depths. I've found it to be fairly accurate.
I think a sand point would be a better option and stealing water from the serial killers well down the road though. that never ends well. Maybe your neighbor is messing with you and that's the koochiking county gay hookup site.
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Post by kooch on Apr 27, 2019 19:57:58 GMT -6
You can look up the soils for your property online and it will tell which soils are found at different depths. I've found it to be fairly accurate. I think a sand point would be a better option and stealing water from the serial killers well down the road though. that never ends well. Maybe your neighbor is messing with you and that's the koochiking county gay hookup site. A guy can hope.
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