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Post by honker on Sept 22, 2019 20:47:50 GMT -6
I've watched them eat it. They just strip the seeds off and leave the stems. Your pic looks like they aren't quite mature enough yet. It kind of happens overnight, they wait until it's perfect... then it's gone. I’ve got some fat and happy deer on my place this year, soybeans, clover, brassicas, and milo...yet they still managed to find all of my uncaged ROD. Intensive harvest time |
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Post by honker on Oct 5, 2019 17:09:56 GMT -6
I can see why the brassica plot got mowed down early this year  |
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Post by Sandbur on Oct 6, 2019 3:42:46 GMT -6
I can see why the brassica plot got mowed down early this year Brassica still is seldom touched where I live. Why eat turnips when you can eat alfalfa, corn, soybeans, edible beans, sweet corn, and apples? My rye and oats are not getting eaten either. I feel acorns are still the big draw. |
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Post by nhmountains on Oct 6, 2019 20:13:40 GMT -6
I can see why the brassica plot got mowed down early this year Brassica still is seldom touched where I live. Why eat turnips when you can eat alfalfa, corn, soybeans, edible beans, sweet corn, and apples? My rye and oats are not getting eaten either. I feel acorns are still the big draw. Any beech out there Art? I'm finding more and more young ones on my land but, I’ve never found a mature one on my land. Birds and bear must’ve dropped seeds taken from the National Forest. The nearest beech grove is probably 3 miles as a crow flies. I figure mine may produce in another 10-15 years. They’re slow at producing nuts. |
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Post by Sandbur on Oct 7, 2019 6:33:32 GMT -6
Brassica still is seldom touched where I live. Why eat turnips when you can eat alfalfa, corn, soybeans, edible beans, sweet corn, and apples? My rye and oats are not getting eaten either. I feel acorns are still the big draw. Any beech out there Art? I'm finding more and more young ones on my land but, I’ve never found a mature one on my land. Birds and bear must’ve dropped seeds taken from the National Forest. The nearest beech grove is probably 3 miles as a crow flies. I figure mine may produce in another 10-15 years. They’re slow at producing nuts. No beech that I have ever seen. I think Stu thought he had some on his place, but not sure. |
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Post by Sandbur on Oct 7, 2019 6:35:29 GMT -6
Brassica still is seldom touched where I live. Why eat turnips when you can eat alfalfa, corn, soybeans, edible beans, sweet corn, and apples? My rye and oats are not getting eaten either. I feel acorns are still the big draw. Any beech out there Art? I'm finding more and more young ones on my land but, I’ve never found a mature one on my land. Birds and bear must’ve dropped seeds taken from the National Forest. The nearest beech grove is probably 3 miles as a crow flies. I figure mine may produce in another 10-15 years. They’re slow at producing nuts. Most deer tracks on the roads where I live are along alfalfa fields and between a bean and alfalfa field. Up north, a fall planted alfalfa field with some oats regrowth is hot. |
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Post by smsmith on Oct 7, 2019 19:18:05 GMT -6
Any beech out there Art? I'm finding more and more young ones on my land but, I’ve never found a mature one on my land. Birds and bear must’ve dropped seeds taken from the National Forest. The nearest beech grove is probably 3 miles as a crow flies. I figure mine may produce in another 10-15 years. They’re slow at producing nuts. No beech that I have ever seen. I think Stu thought he had some on his place, but not sure. The only beech here are blue beech, aka musclewood, aka American hornbeam I've never seen a beech tree any farther west than the east coast of WI (areas along and near the Lake MI shoreline) |
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Post by Sandbur on Oct 7, 2019 20:23:16 GMT -6
No beech that I have ever seen. I think Stu thought he had some on his place, but not sure. The only beech here are blue beech, aka musclewood, aka American hornbeam I've never seen a beech tree any farther west than the east coast of WI (areas along and near the Lake MI shoreline) Bluebeech=ironwood? |
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Post by smsmith on Oct 7, 2019 20:25:27 GMT -6
The only beech here are blue beech, aka musclewood, aka American hornbeam I've never seen a beech tree any farther west than the east coast of WI (areas along and near the Lake MI shoreline) Bluebeech=ironwood? Blue beech may be called ironwood too...I don't know to be honest. I do know it is nowhere near as hard/dense as what I call ironwood (American Hophornbeam) |
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Post by Sandbur on Oct 8, 2019 3:47:15 GMT -6
Blue beech may be called ironwood too...I don't know to be honest. I do know it is nowhere near as hard/dense as what I call ironwood (American Hophornbeam) Thanks, I guess I still do not know what blue beech is. When I worked in the woods, there wAs a small tree we called leatherwood. Maybe the same? |
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Post by smsmith on Oct 8, 2019 13:06:01 GMT -6
I tried to find a good pic of American Hornbeam but couldn't find exactly what I wanted. This one is pretty close I guess. The bark is the dead give away for me. It looks like rippling muscle. I don't have any here that are beyond tall shrub status. Apparently they can grow into small trees. Mine grow in moist woods, not quite as moist as black ash...but not too far away. Sugar maples and birch tend to be the overstory.  |
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Post by honker on May 30, 2020 22:04:54 GMT -6
Thanks for the input Cat. Do you do all of your plots with this method or do you still do some tilling? If you still do both, what makes you decide which method over the other? Soil, location, weather, all of the above? I still do a little tillage at my dad's place. The only reason is because he has a tractor and I like to drive it... and when he hands me a 6 pack and says "grab the tractor and go plant the field" that is what I do. I started no-till decades ago (in several different forms) and that is all I do at my place. I'm sure that there are times when tillage would save seed and give more consistent results, but I'm good with how things usually turn out. Most of the time I'm really happy with what pops up. All the things you listed above affect when and what I plant, but never the methods that I use to plant. Now... if I had a no-till drill I would use it in a heartbeat but I don't so broadcasting it is. Bumping this thread for a new growing year. Wondering about seeding into standing clover. What all can you get to grow ok in thick clover and thin clover stands? Primary cereal grains, chicory, or rye? Just seed it and time the rains as dragging or packing isn’t an option. Do you seed before mowing? |
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Post by sd51555 on May 30, 2020 23:01:42 GMT -6
I still do a little tillage at my dad's place. The only reason is because he has a tractor and I like to drive it... and when he hands me a 6 pack and says "grab the tractor and go plant the field" that is what I do. I started no-till decades ago (in several different forms) and that is all I do at my place. I'm sure that there are times when tillage would save seed and give more consistent results, but I'm good with how things usually turn out. Most of the time I'm really happy with what pops up. All the things you listed above affect when and what I plant, but never the methods that I use to plant. Now... if I had a no-till drill I would use it in a heartbeat but I don't so broadcasting it is. Bumping this thread for a new growing year. Wondering about seeding into standing clover. What all can you get to grow ok in thick clover and thin clover stands? Primary cereal grains, chicory, or rye? Just seed it and time the rains as dragging or packing isn’t an option. Do you seed before mowing? I've broadcast upwards of 3 acres worth of seed into my half acre clover plot this spring trying to push this very thing. Barley, sorghum, sunflower, buckwheat, squash, pumpkin, and corn. Almost every weekend I went up I was putting more seed down. That window is about closed, or I expect it to be by the next time I get back. Barley is doing fine and is likely too thick in spots. Then I'm switching over to flame thrower control of my sedge grass escapes. Don't know what effect that will have, but I wanna give it an hour of effort and propane and see. Then I'll come back over the top with barley, buckwheat, and my clover blend to try to fill the gap. |
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Post by Catscratch on May 31, 2020 6:16:21 GMT -6
I was just thinking SD should respond to Honkers question when his post popped up. I know he's been working hard at that method. I have some clover right now that I wouldn't even try to broadcast into without a major amendment of some sort. Maybe a very short mowing or two. Maybe put a mob herd of cattle on it a right after broadcasting seed. Probably would hit it with a dose of gly to sit it back long enough for my seed to take. Some clovers come back well after a spraying.
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Post by honker on May 31, 2020 8:37:46 GMT -6
Bumping this thread for a new growing year. Wondering about seeding into standing clover. What all can you get to grow ok in thick clover and thin clover stands? Primary cereal grains, chicory, or rye? Just seed it and time the rains as dragging or packing isn’t an option. Do you seed before mowing? I've broadcast upwards of 3 acres worth of seed into my half acre clover plot this spring trying to push this very thing. Barley, sorghum, sunflower, buckwheat, squash, pumpkin, and corn. Almost every weekend I went up I was putting more seed down. That window is about closed, or I expect it to be by the next time I get back. Barley is doing fine and is likely too thick in spots. Then I'm switching over to flame thrower control of my sedge grass escapes. Don't know what effect that will have, but I wanna give it an hour of effort and propane and see. Then I'll come back over the top with barley, buckwheat, and my clover blend to try to fill the gap. I lacked the full appreciation of what you had going on this spring. I was thinking that crazy seed mix was a new plot or expansion going into rye/wheat thatch layer and didn’t realize that was an area already established in clover. One step ahead of me. |
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