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Post by smsmith on May 23, 2017 18:56:22 GMT -6
Stu, You see the Briggs Auburn apple listed on the above link? They said zone 3. Fedco has a good write up saying it tastes like banana and blackberries but, they list zone 4. www.fedcoseeds.com/trees/?item=108It's also said to have tough skin. I've seen discussions on apples with tough skin and improved insect resistance. I'll have to do some more reading to see what kind of DR it has.
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Post by nhmountains on May 23, 2017 19:42:10 GMT -6
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Post by smsmith on May 23, 2017 19:50:50 GMT -6
Menomonie, WI is about 3 hours SE of me, and about 3 hours NW of my old place. I imagine it would be zone 4b.
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Post by nhmountains on Aug 24, 2017 17:51:41 GMT -6
This is a good 3 part series on Integrated Pest Management (IPM) for Apple pests. It also mentions potassium and calcium as being minerals depleted by apple production. SD's gypsum might help being spread around the trees each fall.
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Post by sd51555 on Aug 24, 2017 19:10:38 GMT -6
Step one is knowing what you need. Step two is knowing what you got. It's why I love soil sampling.
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Post by smsmith on Aug 24, 2017 19:17:28 GMT -6
Man, I read and read on IPM and it seems more and more confusing. I know why many hobby growers just go with Imidan and Captan on an every 2 week (or after heavy rains) schedule.
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Post by nhmountains on Aug 24, 2017 19:32:20 GMT -6
Man, I read and read on IPM and it seems more and more confusing. I know why many hobby growers just go with Imidan and Captan on an every 2 week (or after heavy rains) schedule. I agree Stu but, I picked up quite a few tips from tge videos. Getting the leaves and fruit cleaned up or mulched late fall will help with the apple scab. Adding potassium and calcium should help. I thought of using those pheromone traps but, probably won't. The other thing I noticed was their trees were close to or were touching other trees in rows. They looked 10-15' so I don't feel bad for now in planting at 15'.
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Post by nhmountains on Aug 24, 2017 19:33:34 GMT -6
Step one is knowing what you need. Step two is knowing what you got. It's why I love soil sampling. I still didn't get my soil tests done but, it's on my list.
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Post by sd51555 on Aug 24, 2017 19:45:36 GMT -6
Step one is knowing what you need. Step two is knowing what you got. It's why I love soil sampling. I still didn't get my soil tests done but, it's on my list. Get it done Carl. We need discussion fodder.
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Post by smsmith on Aug 24, 2017 19:48:37 GMT -6
Gonna have my wife print out a form for the UM soil testing lab tomorrow. I plan to test my main orchard/clover plot. I'm betting on needing a fair amount of K as well as some lime.
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Post by nhmountains on Aug 24, 2017 20:22:43 GMT -6
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Post by smallchunk on Aug 25, 2017 9:00:00 GMT -6
When soil sampling for an orchard, how far down should one go?
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Post by sd51555 on Aug 25, 2017 10:38:42 GMT -6
When soil sampling for an orchard, how far down should one go? I think 6" would deliver the majority of the info u need. Getting a complete report is more important. Knowing your CEC, buffer pH, micros and base saturation would help see if u have tie up issues, what kind of lime u need, and how much.
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Post by Sandbur on Aug 26, 2017 16:16:14 GMT -6
Is there any information where crabs may be less demanding on the pH and other nutrients? Or where certain varieties of apples are less demanding?
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Post by nhmountains on Aug 27, 2017 18:29:00 GMT -6
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