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Post by Foggy on Nov 11, 2021 11:03:21 GMT -6
If I was forced to choose between light sand and clay to plot with, I'll go clay every time. Should be able to grow really nice clover if nothing else. Add a decent amount of loam to the light sand so it becomes sandy loam...and I'll take that over clay. This acreage has muck, peat, sandy loam, loamy sand, and glacial till (a mix of a number of soil types). I like diversity My soils range mostly from sandy loam to more sandy. (I do have some lower ground that is quite rich.) If I can get a decent mat of crop residue from my rye and duff....I think I will retain enough moisture to make it thru many of the dry periods that come along. I just need that armor on toll op the soils. That is the big deal for me.....retain the moisture and get seeds covered....and stuff grows nicely. Oftentimes when I was doing my tillage procedure in the past.....I would just cringe as I dried out the soils during disking, tilling, dragging and even cultiacking. Seems dumb now......but when you got is a drawer full of hammers....then everything looks like a nail. It will be an interesting summer in '02 to see if these new plans will pan-out. I hate to eat crow. .
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Post by smsmith on Nov 11, 2021 11:07:45 GMT -6
If I was forced to choose between light sand and clay to plot with, I'll go clay every time. Should be able to grow really nice clover if nothing else. Add a decent amount of loam to the light sand so it becomes sandy loam...and I'll take that over clay. This acreage has muck, peat, sandy loam, loamy sand, and glacial till (a mix of a number of soil types). I like diversity My soils range mostly from sandy loam to more sandy. If I can get a decent mat of crop residue from my rye and duff....I think I will retain enough moisture to make it thru many of the dry periods that come along. I just need that armor on toll op the soils. That is the big deal for me.....retain the moisture and get seeds covered....and stuff grows nicely. Oftentimes when I was doing my tillage procedure in the past.....I would just cringe as I dried out the soils during disking, tilling, dragging and even cultiacking. Seems dumb now......but when you got is a drawer full of hammers....then everything looks like a nail. It will be an interesting summer in '02 to see if these new plans will pan-out. I hate to eat crow. . '22 Your plans are solid. You are 100% on target in leaving that crop residue on top of your soil. I would caution against thinking it will be a "one year turn around". Building soil OM is a long-term procedure. You should see some improvement next year, and more the year after that, and on and on and on...
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Post by Foggy on Nov 11, 2021 11:53:18 GMT -6
My soils range mostly from sandy loam to more sandy. If I can get a decent mat of crop residue from my rye and duff....I think I will retain enough moisture to make it thru many of the dry periods that come along. I just need that armor on toll op the soils. That is the big deal for me.....retain the moisture and get seeds covered....and stuff grows nicely. Oftentimes when I was doing my tillage procedure in the past.....I would just cringe as I dried out the soils during disking, tilling, dragging and even cultiacking. Seems dumb now......but when you got is a drawer full of hammers....then everything looks like a nail. It will be an interesting summer in '02 to see if these new plans will pan-out. I hate to eat crow. . '22 Your plans are solid. You are 100% on target in leaving that crop residue on top of your soil. I would caution against thinking it will be a "one year turn around". Building soil OM is a long-term procedure. You should see some improvement next year, and more the year after that, and on and on and on... only two decades off......no big deal. .
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Post by Sandbur on Nov 11, 2021 13:12:15 GMT -6
'22 Your plans are solid. You are 100% on target in leaving that crop residue on top of your soil. I would caution against thinking it will be a "one year turn around". Building soil OM is a long-term procedure. You should see some improvement next year, and more the year after that, and on and on and on... only two decades off......no big deal. . Maybe 8 decades off?
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Post by Foggy on Nov 17, 2021 10:38:06 GMT -6
So, I been reading a good book titled "Dirt to Soil" by Gabe Brown.....a North Dakota ranger........and I have watched a few of his videos as well as some by Ray Arculetta. Interesting stuff. One of my early jobs in life was working at a testing laboratory.....and they did allot of soil tests as well as many other things. I see they now offer the "Haney Soil Tests" too. Has anyone on this site bought the Haney soil test? I consider doing this in order to get a "baseline" early in my soil "conversion".....tho I am unsure what it will prove for me.....other than I am a sucker for data. . I ordered a few other things from SARE....which should make for good reading while in OZ. Kinda anxious to get on with the new plans. Also unsure when to expect all that Rye to want to go to seed. Hope I get back to terminate it before it does so. We plan to return to MN about mid-May. Edit: Gotta give a big THANK YOU to Cat who sent me the book said above. Great read. I had ordered a few other books on soils and such.....so it took a while to dawn on me who had sent this book to me. Almost done with that one.....I keep falling asleep (because my pulse is so slow). My body could use some regenerative tricks. Grin.
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Post by Bob on Nov 17, 2021 11:30:04 GMT -6
So, I been reading a good book titled "Dirt to Soil" by Gabe Brown.....a North Dakota ranger........and I have watched a few of his videos as well as some by Ray Arculetta. Interesting stuff. One of my early jobs in life was working at a testing laboratory.....and they did allot of soil tests as well as many other things. I see they now offer the "Haney Soil Tests" too. Has anyone on this site bought the Haney soil test? I consider doing this in order to get a "baseline" early in my soil "conversion".....tho I am unsure what it will prove for me.....other than I am a sucker for data. . I ordered a few other things from SARE....which should make for good reading while in OZ. Kinda anxious to get on with the new plans. Also unsure when to expect all that Rye to want to go to seed. Hope I get back to terminate it before it does so. We plan to return to MN about mid-May. Edit: Gotta give a big THANK YOU to Cat who sent me the book said above. Great read. I had ordered a few other books on soils and such.....so it took a while to dawn on me who had sent this book to me. Almost done with that one.....I keep falling asleep (because my pulse is so slow). My body could use some regenerative tricks. Grin. That's a good read. I think I sent that one over to NH as well. I've changed my tune on soil testing the past few years. I think it's important to do one comprehensive test, not so much to see what you have for nutrients, but to understand what your mineral composition is, drainage, and info to make a good lime recommendation. After that, there's really no more utility to the information if you're running a stay-green system. I wish SARE would do another version of their cover crop book. The first one was fantastic, but the number of cover crops available has gone up considerably, and the applications of those crops has also far outstripped what they've recorded so far. Maybe I should have them give me a grant to write the next one? If you want some human regeneration tricks, study up on vitamin D uptake blockers and fat soluble vitamin sources. www.lewrockwell.com/2021/11/no_author/the-promise-perils-of-vitamin-d/
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Post by Foggy on Nov 17, 2021 11:42:19 GMT -6
So, I been reading a good book titled "Dirt to Soil" by Gabe Brown.....a North Dakota ranger........and I have watched a few of his videos as well as some by Ray Arculetta. Interesting stuff. One of my early jobs in life was working at a testing laboratory.....and they did allot of soil tests as well as many other things. I see they now offer the "Haney Soil Tests" too. Has anyone on this site bought the Haney soil test? I consider doing this in order to get a "baseline" early in my soil "conversion".....tho I am unsure what it will prove for me.....other than I am a sucker for data. . I ordered a few other things from SARE....which should make for good reading while in OZ. Kinda anxious to get on with the new plans. Also unsure when to expect all that Rye to want to go to seed. Hope I get back to terminate it before it does so. We plan to return to MN about mid-May. Edit: Gotta give a big THANK YOU to Cat who sent me the book said above. Great read. I had ordered a few other books on soils and such.....so it took a while to dawn on me who had sent this book to me. Almost done with that one.....I keep falling asleep (because my pulse is so slow). My body could use some regenerative tricks. Grin. That's a good read. I think I sent that one over to NH as well. I've changed my tune on soil testing the past few years. I think it's important to do one comprehensive test, not so much to see what you have for nutrients, but to understand what your mineral composition is, drainage, and info to make a good lime recommendation. After that, there's really no more utility to the information if you're running a stay-green system. I wish SARE would do another version of their cover crop book. The first one was fantastic, but the number of cover crops available has gone up considerably, and the applications of those crops has also far outstripped what they've recorded so far. Maybe I should have them give me a grant to write the next one? If you want some human regeneration tricks, study up on vitamin D uptake blockers and fat soluble vitamin sources. www.lewrockwell.com/2021/11/no_author/the-promise-perils-of-vitamin-d/PM to me your mailing addy....and I can send you a copy of the book that Green Cover Crops puts out. They have lots of good info in their 'book'. (100 Pages or so)
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Post by Bob on Nov 17, 2021 11:49:02 GMT -6
That's a good read. I think I sent that one over to NH as well. I've changed my tune on soil testing the past few years. I think it's important to do one comprehensive test, not so much to see what you have for nutrients, but to understand what your mineral composition is, drainage, and info to make a good lime recommendation. After that, there's really no more utility to the information if you're running a stay-green system. I wish SARE would do another version of their cover crop book. The first one was fantastic, but the number of cover crops available has gone up considerably, and the applications of those crops has also far outstripped what they've recorded so far. Maybe I should have them give me a grant to write the next one? If you want some human regeneration tricks, study up on vitamin D uptake blockers and fat soluble vitamin sources. www.lewrockwell.com/2021/11/no_author/the-promise-perils-of-vitamin-d/PM to me your mailing addy....and I can send you a copy of the book that Green Cover Crops puts out. They have lots of good info in their 'book'. (100 Pages or so) I've got that one. It's a terrific book. Have you read the article on quorum sensing? I don't know if that was in the current one, or the one of the past two?
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Post by Foggy on Nov 17, 2021 18:27:51 GMT -6
PM to me your mailing addy....and I can send you a copy of the book that Green Cover Crops puts out. They have lots of good info in their 'book'. (100 Pages or so) I've got that one. It's a terrific book. Have you read the article on quorum sensing? I don't know if that was in the current one, or the one of the past two? Just finished the book Dirt to Soil. Great Read....good finish. Saw no mention of "quorum Sensing". Not sure where to find it??
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Post by Catscratch on Nov 17, 2021 18:49:26 GMT -6
I've got that one. It's a terrific book. Have you read the article on quorum sensing? I don't know if that was in the current one, or the one of the past two? Just finished the book Dirt to Soil. Great Read....good finish. Saw no mention of "quorum Sensing". Not sure where to find it?? It's not in Brown's book. You'll find plenty on the internet though.
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Post by Foggy on Nov 17, 2021 19:13:22 GMT -6
Just finished the book Dirt to Soil. Great Read....good finish. Saw no mention of "quorum Sensing". Not sure where to find it?? It's not in Brown's book. You'll find plenty on the internet though. Just read the cliff notes version of Quorum Sensing. Brown does not use those words to describe the bacteria calling for exchange by other plant life......but he does make mention of it without going to the term. Interesting stuff. I think I have that same trait with a group of wimen. .
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Post by Foggy on Nov 17, 2021 19:29:58 GMT -6
Seems to me that no-tll plotting is a no-brainer for lots of us. The big thing is to do it the easy way.....a grain drill is needed......and preferably a no-till drill. Affordable smaller stuff is finally hitting the market. I suppose stuff that can be pulled with a wheeler or a UTV could be Co-opped between two or three like-minded individuals. Could get allot of work done in a day or two.
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Post by Bob on Nov 17, 2021 20:29:25 GMT -6
Seems to me that no-tll plotting is a no-brainer for lots of us. The big thing is to do it the easy way.....a grain drill is needed......and preferably a no-till drill. Affordable smaller stuff is finally hitting the market. I suppose stuff that can be pulled with a wheeler or a UTV could be Co-opped between two or three like-minded individuals. Could get allot of work done in a day or two. Oh finally, a place for some conflict! Anybody ever read 'Death by meeting?' "The leaders of these meetings have to think of themselves as directors. Get people hooked in those first ten minutes, then mine for ideological conflict, then drive it to conclusion."
I have a bold prediction for you... If you continue down this path, you will get rid of the drill and roller by the end of your 3rd season from here. Not because of failure, but because it's no longer necessary to meet your goals.
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Post by Foggy on Nov 17, 2021 22:04:22 GMT -6
Seems to me that no-tll plotting is a no-brainer for lots of us. The big thing is to do it the easy way.....a grain drill is needed......and preferably a no-till drill. Affordable smaller stuff is finally hitting the market. I suppose stuff that can be pulled with a wheeler or a UTV could be Co-opped between two or three like-minded individuals. Could get allot of work done in a day or two. Oh finally, a place for some conflict! Anybody ever read 'Death by meeting?' "The leaders of these meetings have to think of themselves as directors. Get people hooked in those first ten minutes, then mine for ideological conflict, then drive it to conclusion."
I have a bold prediction for you... If you continue down this path, you will get rid of the drill and roller by the end of your 3rd season from here. Not because of failure, but because it's no longer necessary to meet your goals. Grin. Yeah....maybe if I was only interested in a small Hoog that fits inside a Suburu.....or a postage stamp sized food plot. I got 10 acres to plant......and golf to play. I have little time and less energy for manual (ARGH!) labor. If I'd adopt your way of doing things....pretty soon I'd be pooping in a pail, rigging 12 volt bulbs, and toting a pussy everywhere I go. FORE!
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Post by Bob on Nov 17, 2021 22:58:37 GMT -6
Oh finally, a place for some conflict! Anybody ever read 'Death by meeting?' "The leaders of these meetings have to think of themselves as directors. Get people hooked in those first ten minutes, then mine for ideological conflict, then drive it to conclusion."
I have a bold prediction for you... If you continue down this path, you will get rid of the drill and roller by the end of your 3rd season from here. Not because of failure, but because it's no longer necessary to meet your goals. Grin. Yeah....maybe if I was only interested in a small Hoog that fits inside a Suburu.....or a postage stamp sized food plot. I got 10 acres to plant......and golf to play. I have little time and less energy for manual (ARGH!) labor. If I'd adopt your way of doing things....pretty soon I'd be pooping in a pail, rigging 12 volt bulbs, and toting a pussy everywhere I go. FORE! Three years. It'll be even less work and time than using the drill. You'll spend more time maintaining the tractor than you will using it.
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