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Post by Freeborn on Apr 9, 2017 10:37:09 GMT -6
I have several failed B118 graphs from a couple years ago that are planted on my place. These rootstock each have 2-3 small branches that I want to graph onto. Is there anything different in how I approach grafting these? If there are 3 branches would you graft just one of them or would you try and graft a couple?
My thoughts are to approach this similar to bench grafting and will probably stick with cleft graphs.
Thanks
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Post by nhmountains on Apr 9, 2017 16:21:48 GMT -6
Any photos FB? How tall are they and what diameter are the branches?
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Post by Freeborn on Apr 9, 2017 18:24:07 GMT -6
Sorry,
I don't live on my property so no photos. I was hoping to get it done next weekend. Most of these branches are similar in diameter to the scion I would graft onto them. I'll probably go ahead and graft onto them similar to a bench graft and hope for the best. I'll take some photos next weekend after I'm done.
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Post by nhmountains on Apr 9, 2017 18:53:08 GMT -6
I'd pick one branch and graft to it and cut off the other branches. If these are one year old and on the same rootstock they're probably competing for the central leader and will have poor crotch angles.
Here's a nice video on cleft grafting in the field. On B118 you can graft up higher on the rootstock than he did with the M111 in this video.
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Post by Sandbur on Apr 10, 2017 6:03:35 GMT -6
I have left tow of my b 188's gro as is, since it sounds like they make a decent deer apples.
I have some dolgo seedling rootstock that I will let grow a few years before topworking. Some of those dolgo seedlings make decent deer apples.
Dolgos that have been ion the ground about 8 years or so are being sorted. Bird crabs are going to be top worked and the bigger crabs are being left alone.
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Post by Freeborn on Apr 11, 2017 7:41:04 GMT -6
I'd pick one branch and graft to it and cut off the other branches. If these are one year old and on the same rootstock they're probably competing for the central leader and will have poor crotch angles. Here's a nice video on cleft grafting in the field. On B118 you can graft up higher on the rootstock than he did with the M111 in this video. Good video, thanks for sharing. He really cut his existing trees low to the ground. They always make it look easy on the film.
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Post by Freeborn on Apr 11, 2017 7:45:20 GMT -6
I have left tow of my b 188's gro as is, since it sounds like they make a decent deer apples. I have some dolgo seedling rootstock that I will let grow a few years before topworking. Some of those dolgo seedlings make decent deer apples. Dolgos that have been ion the ground about 8 years or so are being sorted. Bird crabs are going to be top worked and the bigger crabs are being left alone. I have thought the same thing Art, I could just leave the B118 and top work the Red-splendor crab-apples I have. Do you typically top work while the tree is dormant or later in the spring?
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Post by nhmountains on Apr 11, 2017 21:27:36 GMT -6
FB,
You generally top work when the bark is slipping. When the leaves are like mouse ears and before they bloom. I'm guessing you guys must be getting close. I'd say here in NH it will probably be the last two weeks of April.
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Post by Sandbur on Apr 14, 2017 17:29:45 GMT -6
I have left tow of my b 188's gro as is, since it sounds like they make a decent deer apples. I have some dolgo seedling rootstock that I will let grow a few years before topworking. Some of those dolgo seedlings make decent deer apples. Dolgos that have been ion the ground about 8 years or so are being sorted. Bird crabs are going to be top worked and the bigger crabs are being left alone. I have thought the same thing Art, I could just leave the B118 and top work the Red-splendor crab-apples I have. Do you typically top work while the tree is dormant or later in the spring? It might be getting close to time to topwork, but I worry about frost killing the scion. It is also dry, so will the bark still slip? Stu, is it time?
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Post by smsmith on Apr 14, 2017 17:35:47 GMT -6
I have thought the same thing Art, I could just leave the B118 and top work the Red-splendor crab-apples I have. Do you typically top work while the tree is dormant or later in the spring? It might be getting close to time to topwork, but I worry about frost killing the scion. It is also dry, so will the bark still slip? Stu, is it time? It's not time here yet, but your place is usually ahead of mine in spring it seems. My Whitney crab is about ready to leaf out, but everything else I checked on today was still either dormant or at silver tip.
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Post by nhmountains on Apr 14, 2017 17:45:53 GMT -6
Do you think bagging them with small paper lunch bags would help protect again frosts?
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Post by Sandbur on Apr 14, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -6
One year, I covered them with plastic ob sleeves, but I need to be there to remove the sleeves int he morning, or I fear the sleeves might cook the scion.
those paper lunch bags are a good idea.
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Post by nhmountains on Apr 14, 2017 18:22:21 GMT -6
Art,
The video I saw the clipped all four corners of the bag to let the hot air out.
I think if I tried that the bear would investigate and rip it off. I'm thinking I'll be top work grafting next weekend.
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Post by nhmountains on Apr 16, 2017 6:04:40 GMT -6
How's your guys trees looking for grafting? I'm getting antsy to get top working the trees I opened up. I was hoping to do it next weekend but, I'm guessing the earliest will be two weeks. Can you cleft graft earlier? I've got a couple trees I may try cleft grafting some 1/2 -1" branches. This is one ready for bark grafting. Another one waiting. This one I want to cleft graft a few varieties.
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Post by smsmith on Apr 16, 2017 7:02:12 GMT -6
I think you want trees to be pushing leaves before doing any kind of top working. I won't be doing any just yet, maybe in a week or 10 days.
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