Shit, those hours are low enough you can still get the cheap factory fluids out and good stuff in without any wear setting in.
SD, what fluids to you recommend? Thanks
Beings that it's new, I'd drain the coolant and replace it with a long life maintenance free (no extenders needed, no coolant filters, no re-calibrating, if you're low, just add more) diesel coolant. Always get premixed, because manufacturers use de-ionized water to prevent sulfates, chlorides, and minerals from getting into your coolant water. That's what wrecks your water pumps, seals, etc. These below will go 6000 hours. Green isn't even rated for diesels, and cheap ones are depleted at 3000 hours.
Chevron Delo XLC 50/50 (Universal for all but Caterpillar or any propylene glycol (PG) coolants. You find PG in Bobcat equipment.)
Farm Oyl Heavy Duty Antifreeze 50/50 (also approved for Cat, don't mix with PG coolants)
Farm Oyl is the cenex branded coolant. So If you've got a cenex station around, you could find it there.
On your Universal tractor fluids (also called power fluid, hydraulic, transmission, universal transdraulic) see below. The aftermarket guys have to build these fluids to meet all manufacturer specs, not just their own brand like Deere or Case IH. This is the one you don't want to skimp on, because this fluid protects all your most expensive and hardest to fix components. The difference between a good one and a cheap one is how long they hold up, how well they handle water, lubricate, and cool. Here's the triangle of death when it comes to hydraulic/transmission fluids.
Cenex Qwiklift HTB
Chevron 1000 THF
Mobil 424
Motor oil: If you're running hard (pulling or excessive idling) I'd drop it every 200 hours, or each year in the fall if you don't reach 200 hours. The difference between good oil and cheap oil is how long the additives hold up. $9 oils are good for about half the life of a quality $13 oil. When an oil fails, it no longer keeps the components clean, it can't keep the contaminants in suspension to get them into the filter or carry them out when you drop your oil, and can't handle increasing levels of soot. When you reach a critical point of soot accumulation, your oil thickens and your engine will run harder. If your oil sheers out, you'll lose film strength and end up with a 10W or 5W and it won't provide the film strength your engine requires.
Chevron Delo 400LE
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super
Shell Rotella T
Lastly,
use a premium diesel/diesel additive. Plain #2 fuel doesn't have the components it needs any longer to protect your engine. Stuff is running at higher pressures than ever and when the sulfur was taken out, lots of goodies went with it. This is also why farmers and plotters need gypsum, but let's not get distracted.
Cenex Roadmaster/Rubymaster is a good fuel. A good diesel additive will have 8 components, and every one is critical. Cheaper ones don't have the storage additives. It's pretty to easy to count them when looking at a side-treat product if you don't have access to a Cenex.
Engine benefits
Detergent: Keeps your injector tips clean. Clean injector tips ensure a clean spray pattern which means full combustion. When they get dirty, you don't burn all your fuel and then you end up with soot in your oil, and soot is an abrasive which will cause wear. You'll also lose some fuel economy.
Lubricity: Extends your injector and fuel pump life by preventing wear.
Cetane improver: Faster starts and better fuel ignition. Save strain on your battery and reduces white smoke when it's cold.
Stabilizer: Prevents your fuel from scorching like oil does when you're frying fish. Some engines will send fuel up to the engine and return some of it to the fuel tank. It gets hot when it does that.
Storage benefits
Oxidation inhibitor: Prevents your fuel from turning into varnish. #2 fuel is good for 6 months alone. This extends your life to 12 months before it starts turning purple and getting rank.
Demulsifier: Speeds up the seperation of water in fuel storage. All diesel has and accumulates water. Only really a big deal if you have a storage tank and need to pull fuel as soon as it's delivered. If you pull fuel before natural settling out of excess water occurs, you could end up with excess water in your machine, and then the fuel pump goes to shit. #2 fuel can do it on it's own in 32 hours. An additive will speed it up to 12 hours.
Moisture control: Increases the saturation point (fuels ability to hold water in suspension) of your fuel. This enables your fuel to safely carry water all the way through your system. It prevents excess water from building up and eventually causing a fuel pump to go out.
Corrosion Inhibitor: Prevents your metal components (like a fuel storage tank) from rusting. It leaves a protective film on the inside of your tank and other components. This will extend fuel filter life because less crap is being sent downstream because it's doesn't form to begin with.
Best side treat product I've seen is Schaeffers, or Justice Brothers. Best practice is to keep your tanks full all the time. Full tanks don't accumulate condensation inside.
Can you tell I love talking about this stuff?
