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Post by smsmith on Feb 5, 2017 11:42:41 GMT -6
I've found a few more wild crabs this winter. I've been contemplating whether converting them to larger fruited trees is a good idea. I wouldn't top work a tree I found in or near my sanctuary as I don't want there to be food readily available there. However, the trees I've found are scattered throughout the woods, well away from the sanctuary.
Maybe top working them into early ripening/dropping varieties would be best? That way I wouldn't have as high of risks of bumping deer near those trees as I'm accessing/leaving stands? Or do I just leave them as is...or remove them completely?
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Post by Freeborn on Feb 5, 2017 12:35:49 GMT -6
That makes sense. Like food plots I don't think you want to disperse your apple trees and draw deer to where you don't want them. Early dropping varieties should be done by the time your ready hunting season. I would not let the root systems go to waste, top work them and get the benefit.
I'll probably do the same thing on my place with all the Red Splendor Crabapple I have.
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Post by Sandbur on Feb 5, 2017 13:50:55 GMT -6
I would not top work until I knew what they produce on their own. Might not need to topwork at all.
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Post by smsmith on Feb 5, 2017 17:36:39 GMT -6
I would not top work until I knew what they produce on their own. Might not need to topwork at all. Yep, good point and I agree completely. Those that I've found and that I'd topwork have shown themselves to be pretty much worthless as far as fruit goes. Fruit smaller than marbles still hanging on the trees. |
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Post by nhmountains on Feb 6, 2017 22:28:21 GMT -6
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Post by Sandbur on Feb 7, 2017 7:41:36 GMT -6
Carl-what kind of apples did it produce to begin with?
If it was an acceptable apple, look for a root sucker and just keep the root sucker. They grow fast if fenced and protected.
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Post by smsmith on Feb 7, 2017 7:43:45 GMT -6
I'd be tempted to leave a single nurse branch, cut the main trunk a few inches above that branch and then bark graft to the main trunk. The new scions will reach for the sun and the growth will become more vertical.
edited to add...if you want to leave the apple alone, and let it be on its own roots then I'd do the cuts you show in the fifth pic
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Post by nhmountains on Feb 7, 2017 8:42:16 GMT -6
The bark on that tree trunk and looking limbs is older growth. Would that effect graft survival?
I was going to leave one nurse branch and try the grafting a later holding apple and maybe a midsession. This tree has produced a few green apples that hang into November if the bear leave them alone. The fall before the pine hit it there was one apple left on it as I walked by in late November. The next morning I walked by and the bear had broken the limb to get the last apple.
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Post by nhmountains on Feb 7, 2017 8:43:40 GMT -6
Carl-what kind of apples did it produce to begin with? If it was an acceptable apple, look for a root sucker and just keep the root sucker. They grow fast if fenced and protected. I don't think this is a special one other than it hangs late. It's a green apple. |
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Post by smsmith on Feb 7, 2017 8:47:18 GMT -6
The bark on that tree trunk and looking limbs is older growth. Would that effect graft survival? I don't know to be honest. I'm going to try the same thing this spring, so I guess I'll find out. I've seen pics of orchards that have top worked entire blocks of older trees into a new variety. It can be done, but I've no idea of success rates. |
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