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Post by leexrayshady on May 26, 2019 16:41:10 GMT -6
Ok can anybody helo me decipher what replacement chain I need for my chainsaw, I've searched online and tried to understand the numbers I think you can get the info off the bar if I understand correctly. But for the life of me I just can't seem to figure it out
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Post by chummer16 on May 26, 2019 17:09:17 GMT -6
I always have to take the old one in and they match it up.
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Post by Tooln on May 26, 2019 17:39:28 GMT -6
Your chain has a lot of life in it yet. It has 55 drivers, is .043 gauge with a 3/8" pitch. Best bet is to take the old one along as mentioned.
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Post by nhmountains on May 26, 2019 19:19:32 GMT -6
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Post by nhmountains on May 26, 2019 19:24:21 GMT -6
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Post by wklman on May 26, 2019 21:05:00 GMT -6
Head to staples hardware with it and they'll hook you up lee. That's where I bought my stihl at.
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Post by leexrayshady on May 26, 2019 21:38:14 GMT -6
Head to staples hardware with it and they'll hook you up lee. That's where I bought my stihl at. Yep that's where I got this one,
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Post by leexrayshady on May 26, 2019 21:38:42 GMT -6
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Post by Tooln on May 27, 2019 1:51:11 GMT -6
Oregon make a good chain. IMO
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Post by nhmountains on May 27, 2019 4:39:37 GMT -6
Oregon make a good chain. IMO I think they do and locally here they’re $8 less than the manufacturer chains. Lee just needs to make sure he gets a low profile chain for his bar. It’s designed to prevent kickbacks verses the standard chain.
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Post by smsmith on May 27, 2019 8:02:20 GMT -6
Take the bar and chain in to any Stihl dealer. Then, keep the box that chain came in so you know what to buy next time I don't know what saw you have, but as far as I know they don't make a chain for the MS170 or 180 that isn't an anti-kick back model. I prefer to run the more aggressive chain, but as of yet I haven't been able to source one for my 180s. Maybe Oregon makes one, I have always run Stihl chains on my Stihl saws. I do use Oregon chains on my Husky and they're good chains.
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Post by kooch on May 27, 2019 8:26:30 GMT -6
Speaking of chains.
I'm on my first saw, a Stihl Wood Boss. The first chain I got was a low profile anti-kickback chain. It works fine. Then, I got a carbide tipped chain. I think the carbide chain tripled the amount of work I can do before it's too dull to do much. The cost is worth it to me since I have to make the most of my time up there. Getting it sharpened is also more expensive. I have a more aggressive chain now, which I much prefer to the "safety chain".
If my family loves me, I may get that fancy Oregon sharpener for a Father's Day gift. If that happens, I may ditch the carbide and just sharpen every night. But I can't sharpen anything worth a shit so using a file is right out.
Also, a chainsaw question. There's little short screw that holds the chain adjuster thing on the bar that comes loose every time, and I lose it. It's a pain in the ass. When I want to change a chain, or if I slip a chain, I need three hands to put it back together. Is this a regular thing? Blue loc-tite a bad idea here?
It just occurred to me, two twists with a screwdriver before I use the saw might fix this problem.
Edit - I'm all down in the dirt and mud with my saw and I don't care if it's wrong or right. That's why the chain isn't a permanent fixture on the saw. "DONT TOUCH THE DIRT! DONT TOUCH THE DIRT".... whatever. I'm working.
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Post by Tooln on May 27, 2019 13:47:05 GMT -6
Take the bar and chain in to any Stihl dealer. Then, keep the box that chain came in so you know what to buy next time I don't know what saw you have, but as far as I know they don't make a chain for the MS170 or 180 that isn't an anti-kick back model. I prefer to run the more aggressive chain, but as of yet I haven't been able to source one for my 180s. Maybe Oregon makes one, I have always run Stihl chains on my Stihl saws. I do use Oregon chains on my Husky and they're good chains. Most manufactures are only selling anti kick back chains now for liability reasons. If you want a real aggressive chain grind the rakers down and hold on tight.
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