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Post by Freeborn on Sept 2, 2019 12:37:02 GMT -6
So how do you figure the angle to cut and length of the stringers for a 10’, 12’ tower? I'm using this tool to get an understanding of the angle and total length of the primary stringers. Because I'm not proficient at building stairs I don't know the angle for building the actual steps, this means I'll probably build on site. I could get a single stringer, stringer slope and landing pad put together and this would allow me to figure what the step angle would be. I could then go back and build the stairs in my shed and then set them up. Right now I'm thinking I'll build on site even though it's more of a pain then working in the shed. As Cat mentioned if I build on site then I can use a little level to make certain each step is correct. Once I have a couple of steps in I could cut to small 2x6s as a jig to give me the distance and angle for each step, this would speed up the process of getting all the steps put in. I'm figuring 16' total length will put the bttom of the stairs around 8'away from the blind using and estimate of 13' total height (blind height, slope loss in height). Once I have the 16' lengths of boards attached to the blind and sitting on the bottom pad I'll figure out the angle and with a jig attach each step. We will see how it goes but in concept it doesn't sound to bad. rechneronline.de/slope/
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Post by Foggy on Sept 2, 2019 15:13:02 GMT -6
So how do you figure the angle to cut and length of the stringers for a 10’, 12’ tower? Spend several years in engineering school to determine your needs. Or......buy a long-enough stringer or use a section of 2x4 and lay it up against the structure and the ground. Now....stand back and have a look at how steep you want to make the steps. Next take a level and draw a line(s) for the tread supports....and another where it will affix to the blind floor joists.....and yet another at ground level. There.....your done. And you just saved going to engineering school. . IIRC....normally steps are spaced at 7.5" rise.....but I added a few inches for the risers as you don't walk these steps on an everyday basis. I think 10" is what I used?
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Post by Foggy on Sept 2, 2019 15:21:09 GMT -6
^^^ .......all this from a buncha guys that thought nothing of climbing screw-in tree steps to 15' heights and climbing onto a hanging stand (without a safety rope) a few years ago. Grin.
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Post by Freeborn on Sept 2, 2019 15:39:00 GMT -6
So how do you figure the angle to cut and length of the stringers for a 10’, 12’ tower? Spend several years in engineering school to determine your needs. Or......buy a long-enough stringer or use a section of 2x4 and lay it up against the structure and the ground. Now....stand back and have a look at how steep you want to make the steps. Next take a level and draw a line(s) for the tread supports....and another where it will affix to the blind floor joists.....and yet another at ground level. There.....your done. And you just saved going to engineering school. . IIRC....normally steps are spaced at 7.5" rise.....but I added a few inches for the risers as you don't walk these steps on an everyday basis. I think 10" is what I used? I'm thinking a 10" rise should work with my long legs. On your previous post you listed 4/5 lumber, are you talking about a standard deck board with rounded edges? I was planning on 2x6.
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Post by Foggy on Sept 2, 2019 15:42:33 GMT -6
Spend several years in engineering school to determine your needs. Or......buy a long-enough stringer or use a section of 2x4 and lay it up against the structure and the ground. Now....stand back and have a look at how steep you want to make the steps. Next take a level and draw a line(s) for the tread supports....and another where it will affix to the blind floor joists.....and yet another at ground level. There.....your done. And you just saved going to engineering school. . IIRC....normally steps are spaced at 7.5" rise.....but I added a few inches for the risers as you don't walk these steps on an everyday basis. I think 10" is what I used? I'm thinking a 10" rise should work with my long legs. On your previous post you listed 4/5 lumber, are you talking about a standard deck board with rounded edges? I was planning on 2x6. Yep.....if you keep those tread widths to 16" or so....I don't see why you cannot use standard deck boards (they call it 5/4 as it is 1.25" thick by 5.5" wide). Nice width....expecially if you go a bit steeper than I did. Also, I think I earlier said I used 6" stringers for the steps.....but I am almost sure I used 8" stringers......and I think I would do this again. EDIT: I was not too sure about using 5/4" lumber (1.25" x 6) so I used 2 pcs of 2x4" lumber side by side for my treads. It's nice....but quite heavy and I think it's overkill. Maybe a compromise would be a 2x6" stair tread? - you're a big guy.....the extra thickness might be good? Dunno.
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Post by nhmountains on Sept 2, 2019 15:47:49 GMT -6
So how do you figure the angle to cut and length of the stringers for a 10’, 12’ tower? Spend several years in engineering school to determine your needs. Or......buy a long-enough stringer or use a section of 2x4 and lay it up against the structure and the ground. Now....stand back and have a look at how steep you want to make the steps. Next take a level and draw a line(s) for the tread supports....and another where it will affix to the blind floor joists.....and yet another at ground level. There.....your done. And you just saved going to engineering school. . IIRC....normally steps are spaced at 7.5" rise.....but I added a few inches for the risers as you don't walk these steps on an everyday basis. I think 10" is what I used? I get the rise over run thing but the angle at the top of the stringers where they meet the decking gets me. Brad’s idea of posts at the bottom takes care of the bottom of the stairs edge. I guess the long 2x4 along the end edge of the decking would give the angle. Then transfer that to the stringers.
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Post by nhmountains on Sept 2, 2019 15:48:29 GMT -6
Badgerfowl should be able to give us some tips. He’s made several blinds.
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Post by Freeborn on Sept 2, 2019 15:48:41 GMT -6
I'm thinking a 10" rise should work with my long legs. On your previous post you listed 4/5 lumber, are you talking about a standard deck board with rounded edges? I was planning on 2x6. Yep.....if you keep those tread widths to 16" or so....I don't see why you cannot use standard deck boards (they call it 5/4 as it is 1.25" thick by 5.5" wide). Nice width....expecially if you go a bit steeper than I did. Also, I think I earlier said I used 6" stringers for the steps.....but I am almost sure I used 8" stringers......and I think I would do this again. That makes sense, I planned on 16" widths so 5/4 deck boards should work.
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Post by Freeborn on Sept 2, 2019 15:58:12 GMT -6
Could you bury two posts and set the so the tops are level. Then lay a board across them to set the stairs on top of and that would be your first step? Just thinking out loud. I like this idea as it would allow me to build the stairs in the shed and if it wasn't exactly the right angle for the steps I could adjust the angle using your method. If I had a super remote location I would use this method. The first step being different isn't a big deal but this would get the angle of the steps right Which you want as you get higher on the stairs. Sense I have good acces I'll just build as I go it's not hard work just a little more of a pain.
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Post by nhmountains on Sept 2, 2019 16:13:30 GMT -6
Could you bury two posts and set the so the tops are level. Then lay a board across them to set the stairs on top of and that would be your first step? Just thinking out loud. I like this idea as it would allow me to build the stairs in the shed and if it wasn't exactly the right angle for the steps I could adjust the angle using your method. If I had a super remote location I would use this method. The first step being different isn't a big deal but this would get the angle of the steps right Which you want as you get higher on the stairs. Sense I have good acces I'll just build as I go it's not hard work just a little more of a pain. So I’d line up a stake with the edge of your platform. Then run the stringer or 2x4 from the edge of the deck to the bottom of the stake. You could screw it to the side decking so it swivels. That’ll give you the angle you want. Then transfer that angle to the stringers and plant your base posts.
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Post by Foggy on Sept 2, 2019 19:02:56 GMT -6
Until now.....I never knew there was this much thought to building a stairway to a deer blind. . Grin. (JK....It does pay to plan). FWIW....I'd like to know if Menards has 2x3" treated wood. I think this is what I bought for use in my railings??.....and I think you should use it to support your stair treads.....but I cannot remember if I bought some of this for a railing....or if it was my imagination. Maybe I bought non-treated??
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Post by Freeborn on Sept 2, 2019 19:29:07 GMT -6
Until now.....I never knew there was this much thought to building a stairway to a deer blind. . Grin. (JK....It does pay to plan). FWIW....I'd like to know if Menards has 2x3" treated wood. I think this is what I bought for use in my railings??.....and I think you should use it to support your stair treads.....but I cannot remember if I bought some of this for a railing....or if it was my imagination. Maybe I bought non-treated?? They also make small galvanized plates (3-4") that are two sided that would also work. These plates are sold with the hangers, they're about a 1.20 a piece but probably worth it.
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Post by Foggy on Sept 2, 2019 19:35:07 GMT -6
Until now.....I never knew there was this much thought to building a stairway to a deer blind. . Grin. (JK....It does pay to plan). FWIW....I'd like to know if Menards has 2x3" treated wood. I think this is what I bought for use in my railings??.....and I think you should use it to support your stair treads.....but I cannot remember if I bought some of this for a railing....or if it was my imagination. Maybe I bought non-treated?? They also make small galvanized plates (3-4") that are two sided that would also work. These plates are sold with the hangers, they're about a 1.20 a piece but probably worth it. Hmmmm....I'd like to see those. Might be the way to do this project? I like the sound of it. Though....the thing with wood is that you get support of the shank of the screws from one piece to another.....and that can add some serious strength to the stabiltilty of the structure. (hard to write technical chit like this. ).
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Post by nhmountains on Sept 2, 2019 19:53:58 GMT -6
Until now.....I never knew there was this much thought to building a stairway to a deer blind. . Grin. (JK....It does pay to plan). FWIW....I'd like to know if Menards has 2x3" treated wood. I think this is what I bought for use in my railings??.....and I think you should use it to support your stair treads.....but I cannot remember if I bought some of this for a railing....or if it was my imagination. Maybe I bought non-treated?? The last set of steps I was involved was a pain in the ass. My brother had built them with 16' pressure treated stringers and attached the steps. Everything looked great on the ground but, trying to lift them up 12' without the angle cut was a shit show. They'll be put together onsite the next ime. I would recommend you add a railing to your steps for safety purposes.
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Post by MoBuckChaser on Sept 3, 2019 5:06:00 GMT -6
Wish you were closer Jerry I would cut them for you. I have cut piles of stair stringer for homes. Just did a set for my box blind here in MO. I use a framing square once I know where the landing area will be.
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