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Post by Freeborn on Oct 9, 2019 4:59:36 GMT -6
Once a tree gets above the original support post how do you tie up or straighten the leader? I was thinking I could pound in a taller post but I don't want to hurt the roots.
Are you guys pinching off all of the buds/apples on your leaders so they grow straight?
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Post by smsmith on Oct 9, 2019 6:52:21 GMT -6
Once they're beyond my ability to tie them, they're on their own. Remove or reduce the fruit load so they stay straight for a few years.
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Post by Catscratch on Oct 9, 2019 7:25:33 GMT -6
Same problem! I have 1 tree that refuses to stay straight. It leans so much that I fear it will eventually fall over. Got to figure out how to get it a little straighter but even if I do it's leader always grows crooked. I'm considering tieing it up, cutting the central leader, then letting a different one grow that wants to go up instead of sideways.
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Post by nhmountains on Oct 10, 2019 14:06:20 GMT -6
If you use the metal emt piping you can use a couple to add another 10’ length.
Like Stu, I don’t worry about them after they get 10’ high.
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Post by Freeborn on Oct 10, 2019 17:14:06 GMT -6
If you use the metal emt piping you can use a couple to add another 10’ length. Like Stu, I don’t worry about them after they get 10’ high. I'm thinking of trying something, I just not certain what that is, maybe a length of chain linked fence pipe. I do need to pick the apples off the leader so it gets a chance to grow straight. |
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Post by Sandbur on Oct 10, 2019 20:12:48 GMT -6
If you use the metal emt piping you can use a couple to add another 10’ length. Like Stu, I don’t worry about them after they get 10’ high. I'm thinking of trying something, I just not certain what that is, maybe a length of chain linked fence pipe. I do need to pick the apples off the leader so it gets a chance to grow straight. I wonder if apples in the prairie areas just weren’t meant to be tall with a central leader. |
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Post by Freeborn on Oct 10, 2019 20:19:32 GMT -6
I'm thinking of trying something, I just not certain what that is, maybe a length of chain linked fence pipe. I do need to pick the apples off the leader so it gets a chance to grow straight. I wonder if apples in the prairie areas just weren’t meant to be tall with a central leader. Hard to guess mother natures intent but I think there is value and as a land manager I'll work to overcome natures limitations. |
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Post by smsmith on Oct 10, 2019 20:26:27 GMT -6
I'm thinking of trying something, I just not certain what that is, maybe a length of chain linked fence pipe. I do need to pick the apples off the leader so it gets a chance to grow straight. I wonder if apples in the prairie areas just weren’t meant to be tall with a central leader. At a certain point, height of an apple tree becomes a disadvantage. I can't reach the top of a couple wild crabs with my atv sprayer. I reduced the height of one last winter, and will continue to work on it to get it within sprayer reach. I think a modified central leader is probably how most of my mature trees will end up. |
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Post by nhmountains on Oct 10, 2019 20:46:45 GMT -6
I wonder if apples in the prairie areas just weren’t meant to be tall with a central leader. At a certain point, height of an apple tree becomes a disadvantage. I can't reach the top of a couple wild crabs with my atv sprayer. I reduced the height of one last winter, and will continue to work on it to get it within sprayer reach. I think a modified central leader is probably how most of my mature trees will end up. Believe me that’s true Stu. After topping several 30 footers last March I wouldn’t want my trees to grow higher than 15’ if you’re going to be picking apples and pruning them. |
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Post by nhmountains on Oct 10, 2019 20:49:21 GMT -6
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Post by benmnwi on Oct 10, 2019 21:02:12 GMT -6
I wonder if apples in the prairie areas just weren’t meant to be tall with a central leader. At a certain point, height of an apple tree becomes a disadvantage. I can't reach the top of a couple wild crabs with my atv sprayer. I reduced the height of one last winter, and will continue to work on it to get it within sprayer reach. I think a modified central leader is probably how most of my mature trees will end up. Do you spray those Wild crabapples with the same mixes you use for the apples you eat? |
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Post by Freeborn on Oct 10, 2019 21:04:12 GMT -6
At a certain point, height of an apple tree becomes a disadvantage. I can't reach the top of a couple wild crabs with my atv sprayer. I reduced the height of one last winter, and will continue to work on it to get it within sprayer reach. I think a modified central leader is probably how most of my mature trees will end up. Believe me that’s true Stu. After topping several 30 footers last March I wouldn’t want my trees to grow higher than 15’ if you’re going to be picking apples and pruning them. Most standard trees grow to 25' trees, why top them at 15' if you want yield? Seems if you want smaller trees you should buy Dwarf or semi dwarf trees. Am I missing something? |
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Post by nhmountains on Oct 10, 2019 21:20:47 GMT -6
Believe me that’s true Stu. After topping several 30 footers last March I wouldn’t want my trees to grow higher than 15’ if you’re going to be picking apples and pruning them. Most standard trees grow to 25' trees, why top them at 15' if you want yield? Seems if you want smaller trees you should buy Dwarf or semi dwarf trees. Am I missing something? Bear and coon climb up high and break branches. Branches up high might break from heavy fruit loads. Disease might strike up high. Limbs die and sit there. My tallest ladder is 14’. I used a 10’ pole chainsaw. It’s a workout pruning tall trees. I’ve got some that are 35’ tall that I can’t get to without climbing spurs. The spurs would create wounds so I’m not doing that. You get a tree to 20’ it should be producing 8-10 bushel of apples. That’s plenty per tree. 1/2 truck load or so. |
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Post by Freeborn on Oct 11, 2019 5:44:17 GMT -6
Most standard trees grow to 25' trees, why top them at 15' if you want yield? Seems if you want smaller trees you should buy Dwarf or semi dwarf trees. Am I missing something? Bear and coon climb up high and break branches. Branches up high might break from heavy fruit loads. Disease might strike up high. Limbs die and sit there. My tallest ladder is 14’. I used a 10’ pole chainsaw. It’s a workout pruning tall trees. I’ve got some that are 35’ tall that I can’t get to without climbing spurs. The spurs would create wounds so I’m not doing that. You get a tree to 20’ it should be producing 8-10 bushel of apples. That’s plenty per tree. 1/2 truck load or so. When you cut off a leader do you need to consider anything or do you just take off the top foot or so? What type of 14' ladder do you use? Fiberglass is so heavy, aluminum is better but as we age I can see this being a problem. Same with pole saws, I have stihl and when your reaching and extended it's a bear to hold it. |
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Post by smsmith on Oct 11, 2019 6:55:22 GMT -6
At a certain point, height of an apple tree becomes a disadvantage. I can't reach the top of a couple wild crabs with my atv sprayer. I reduced the height of one last winter, and will continue to work on it to get it within sprayer reach. I think a modified central leader is probably how most of my mature trees will end up. Do you spray those Wild crabapples with the same mixes you use for the apples you eat? I have a couple trees with fruit good enough for humans...so those get sprayed at the same time as my planted trees. |
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