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Post by Catscratch on Mar 13, 2017 14:36:04 GMT -6
I did some apple pruning this weekend. Followed two rules: nothing crossing and nothing stacked above each other. It opened up quite a bit but I stopped before getting up in the tree much. What would you do next? Before: After: Inside:
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Post by smsmith on Mar 13, 2017 15:01:07 GMT -6
I guess the next thing I'd do would be to remove branches growing inward.
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Post by ogemaone on Mar 13, 2017 15:39:28 GMT -6
I'd love to have a tree that size!! Patience
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Post by Catscratch on Mar 13, 2017 17:04:14 GMT -6
I guess the next thing I'd do would be to remove branches growing inward. Keep opening the center up? There are some goofy things happening in the center of the tree. Right where the central leader would be, but it looks like it died and some stuff came out sideways. Would you do anything with it/them?
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Post by Catscratch on Mar 13, 2017 17:06:51 GMT -6
I'd love to have a tree that size!! Patience I planted this tree at my parents a couple of decades ago (really don't know if it was 15yrs ago, or 30yrs, things blend together after a while but it is fairly old for around here). Anyway it hasn't produced much over the yrs and I want to help it along some. Figured pruning is something I can do. When you say patience, do you mean to not cut anymore this yr? I worry about pruning too much at once but don't really know what I'm doing...
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Post by smsmith on Mar 13, 2017 17:11:22 GMT -6
I guess the next thing I'd do would be to remove branches growing inward. Keep opening the center up? There are some goofy things happening in the center of the tree. Right where the central leader would be, but it looks like it died and some stuff came out sideways. Would you do anything with it/them? With big trees like that, I struggle to say exactly what I'd do by only looking at a few pics. One thing to be cognizant of is that dormant pruning of big trees leads to them putting out new wood. If you've removed any crossing and dead limbs, and will remove limbs growing inward...I'd probably call that good for this winter. Next winter, you could do some more thinning/limb removal. A 3 year time span is generally recommended for re-shaping big, old trees. An old saying to keep in mind when training/pruning fruit trees is that "you should be able to throw your hat (or a ball) through the tree without hitting limbs"
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Post by nhmountains on Mar 13, 2017 17:24:56 GMT -6
Here's a couple suggestions with the branches to remove in red. Like Stu said you've removed a lot for this year but. Maybe take some of the very small branches I marked. Also, the branches that point downward (pendant)will have the ends die and not fruit so you could cut them at an outward or possibly upward bud and they'll take off in that direction rather than downward. On this this angle I couldn't tell if the blue marked branches were rubbing or crossing? The upper red mark on the left side my be going up into other branches. The might help open up a little but, you'd have to tell in person.
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Post by ogemaone on Mar 13, 2017 17:49:40 GMT -6
Keep opening the center up? There are some goofy things happening in the center of the tree. Right where the central leader would be, but it looks like it died and some stuff came out sideways. Would you do anything with it/them? With big trees like that, I struggle to say exactly what I'd do by only looking at a few pics. One thing to be cognizant of is that dormant pruning of big trees leads to them putting out new wood. If you've removed any crossing and dead limbs, and will remove limbs growing inward...I'd probably call that good for this winter. Next winter, you could do some more thinning/limb removal. A 3 year time span is generally recommended for re-shaping big, old trees. An old saying to keep in mind when training/pruning fruit trees is that "you should be able to throw your hat (or a ball) through the tree without hitting limbs" No, I meant patience for my trees to get that size.
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Post by Catscratch on Mar 13, 2017 18:27:49 GMT -6
That's a lot of help guys. Thanks for the explanations and graphics, this helps me out greatly!
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Post by buckvelvet on Mar 14, 2017 7:18:09 GMT -6
With all the cutting wouldn't you say return to this tree in August to remove most of the water sprouts cuz i'm sure there will be a bunch?
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Post by smsmith on Mar 14, 2017 7:26:33 GMT -6
With all the cutting wouldn't you say return to this tree in August to remove most of the water sprouts cuz i'm sure there will be a bunch? If the tree was in MN, I'd say yes. Since I know very little about KS and fruit tree disease cycles there...I'd say "I don't know". I'd be picking local fruit tree people's brains for that info, or see if I could find the answer at KS or KSU extensions.
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Post by buckvelvet on Mar 14, 2017 7:35:40 GMT -6
Good points Stu, KS can't be much diff then Nebraska, maybe ask Chris @ Turkey Creek that ?.
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Post by smsmith on Mar 14, 2017 7:44:44 GMT -6
Could be. I don't know squat about NE either.
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Post by Catscratch on Mar 14, 2017 7:53:25 GMT -6
What is the general rule; don't create/expose open wounds during growing season?
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Post by smsmith on Mar 14, 2017 8:12:22 GMT -6
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