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Post by Reagan on Mar 5, 2024 20:09:43 GMT -6
My property has some hills. High to low ground is about 100ft vertical difference.
Most apple orchards in the area are on high ground. I’m adding more trees this year and I think I may have more than my current orchard can hold.
One option is to add trees to a small field near the road. The road is screened by pines. Some old and some new will be coming along in the next few years. This field is the lowest ground I have. When I walk near there on a cool fall evening I can feel the thermals pouring cold air into that bottom.
Is it a totally dumb idea to plant apples there? Frost issues? Maybe they will wake up later due to the cool air? Maybe they avoid a late frost? Maybe they are more susceptible to a late frost being low.
Whatcha think?
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Post by smsmith on Mar 5, 2024 20:13:57 GMT -6
Kind of sounds like it could be a frost pocket. Have you noticed frost on the grass there and not in other areas?
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Post by benmnwi on Mar 5, 2024 21:37:53 GMT -6
You might lose fruit to frost more often than other locations, but it isn’t a lost cause.
I’ve seen plenty of apple trees growing in valleys and they can have great crops some years.
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Post by Reagan on Mar 5, 2024 22:00:54 GMT -6
Kind of sounds like it could be a frost pocket. Have you noticed frost on the grass there and not in other areas? I can’t say I have. Seems like we don’t get frost but when we do it hits pretty hard and everywhere. We might not get a frost in the fall till late October. I’m not sure our latest spring frost date. My chestnut trees have leafed and been zapped the last 2 springs. They are on higher ground. |
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Post by Sandbur on Mar 6, 2024 3:26:17 GMT -6
I have my main orchard on a gentle south slope (home orchard) and my next biggest group of trees on a gentle north slope. I like the diversity and the north slope( I call them Outback) wake up a bit later in most years.
Winter sunscauld is less of a problem Outback. Advantages and disadvantages to both.
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Post by Sandbur on Mar 6, 2024 3:31:08 GMT -6
Kind of sounds like it could be a frost pocket. Have you noticed frost on the grass there and not in other areas? I can’t say I have. Seems like we don’t get frost but when we do it hits pretty hard and everywhere. We might not get a frost in the fall till late October. I’m not sure our latest spring frost date. My chestnut trees have leafed and been zapped the last 2 springs. They are on higher ground. Do you think rootstock needs to be different in those two locations? I suspect a difference in the two locations I described above. Young trees on Anty struggle in the home orchard. I seem to see more winter damage in this location and feel winter weather is more extreme. |
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Post by nhmountains on Mar 6, 2024 6:02:04 GMT -6
Make sure the location has as much eastern sunlight as possible. Early morning sunlight on a frosty spring morning is your best option on that type location to save some apples. Also, possibly late blooming varieties might work as well. It’s going to be hit miss but, a variety of apples on your property might aid you in having apples every year instead of being shut out sone years.
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Post by Reagan on Mar 6, 2024 8:32:51 GMT -6
I plan the new varieties in pairs. I’ll put one high and one low. Hopefully all my bench grafts take and I can compare the difference.
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Post by Reagan on Mar 6, 2024 8:33:56 GMT -6
I’m M111 on all my rootstock. I did 10 last year. 20 this year.
Anyone see an apple sickness pattern emerging?
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Post by smsmith on Mar 6, 2024 9:15:18 GMT -6
I’m M111 on all my rootstock. I did 10 last year. 20 this year. Anyone see an apple sickness pattern emerging? You'll have a couple hundred before you know it |
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Post by nhmountains on Mar 6, 2024 9:31:05 GMT -6
I’m M111 on all my rootstock. I did 10 last year. 20 this year. Anyone see an apple sickness pattern emerging? I’d try adding in other rootstock like Siberian crab or Dolgo in the future. M111 will grow burr knot growth spots on the bark where it gets wet so you’ll want to keep grass and weeds kept away from the base. These are about 3’ high on a 10 year old tree I grafted for my niece. I have no idea why they’d be there. It’s a dry location and there’s no issues down low. It’s close to girdling the upper stem at this point.   |
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Post by smsmith on Mar 6, 2024 9:38:14 GMT -6
I don't know enough about growing apples in more southerly locations to offer much input for rootstocks. The folks I communicate with who are growing in KY, TN, OH, NC, etc. are not using the same rootstocks that I am. Admittedly, most of them aren't specifically growing apple trees for deer however.
The "G" series of rootstocks appear to be where many hobby growers are headed. Fireblight resistant rootstocks (and varieties) are probably much more important in warmer/wetter/longer season locations than they are here.
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Post by Reagan on Mar 6, 2024 17:40:44 GMT -6
I’m M111 on all my rootstock. I did 10 last year. 20 this year. Anyone see an apple sickness pattern emerging? You'll have a couple hundred before you know it I will need a bigger property for that. |
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Post by Reagan on Mar 6, 2024 17:41:47 GMT -6
I’m M111 on all my rootstock. I did 10 last year. 20 this year. Anyone see an apple sickness pattern emerging? I’d try adding in other rootstock like Siberian crab or Dolgo in the future. M111 will grow burr knot growth spots on the bark where it gets wet so you’ll want to keep grass and weeds kept away from the base. These are about 3’ high on a 10 year old tree I grafted for my niece. I have no idea why they’d be there. It’s a dry location and there’s no issues down low. It’s close to girdling the upper stem at this point. Good to know. I have everything planted with a weed mat. I used limestone on top of that last year. Considering mulch this year. |
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