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Post by Freeborn on May 31, 2017 12:29:36 GMT -6
I am rotating soybeans and corn on my place and with my sandy soil I am using three applications of fertilizer to hopefully maximize yield.
I was reading a UOM publication on the timing of fertilizer applications on sandy soil and am now questioning if I needed to put down start fertilizer when I rotate with soybeans.
I understand I get 40 Lbs. of N per acre from my soybeans, did I need to add a starter fertilizer when I planted my corn? Are nitrogen credits available at the time of planting?
I put down and additional 40 per acre at planting and had planned on putting down 2 more applications (larger second application and smaller 3rd application) later in the season.
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Post by biglakebass on May 31, 2017 12:45:27 GMT -6
You hand fertilize 6 acres in the later applications???
I fertilize in spring, and I am done.
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Post by Freeborn on May 31, 2017 13:23:28 GMT -6
You hand fertilize 6 acres in the later applications??? I fertilize in spring, and I am done. 3 acres corn and 3 acres of beans. Yep the 2nd and 3rd applications will be by hand.
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Post by biglakebass on May 31, 2017 13:56:42 GMT -6
Whoa!!!!!! Thats dedication.
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Post by wildfire123 on May 31, 2017 15:58:48 GMT -6
If you put down the correct amount of fertilizer for the corn, the next year planting beans, needs no fertilizer!
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Post by Sandbur on May 31, 2017 16:55:19 GMT -6
If you put down the correct amount of fertilizer for the corn, the next year planting beans, needs no fertilizer! Jerry- does this apply to light soil like Freeborns? You have that heavy soil which holds nitrogen better from what little I know.
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Post by Freeborn on May 31, 2017 18:45:53 GMT -6
If you put down the correct amount of fertilizer for the corn, the next year planting beans, needs no fertilizer! Hi Jerry, Thanks but I am estimating the amount of starter fertilizer needed for corn planted this year after soybeans were planted in the same field the prior year.
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Post by MoBuckChaser on May 31, 2017 18:47:59 GMT -6
I ain't going to tell anyone what is right and what is wrong. However, on my farm, I have done study after study with starter fertilizer, liquid and dry. I currently use liquid, a mix through Agro-Culture liquids. I use rebounders on my planter that puts that type of low salt starter in the row with the corn seed, not 2" to the side like dry fertilizer planters do. Its called pop up starter. I have experimented with 12 gallons per acre down to zero gallons per acre. I can tell you 2 years in a row, no real yield advantage at harvest, no matter what amount of starter I used. The only difference was maybe a pound or two less in test weight in the corn with no starter, and a few points wetter in moisture. But I still use it to deliver my micro's in furrow and not broadcast for all the weeds to use.
Edit: as far as nitrogen credits goes. We use the bean yield from the year before. If we had 55 bu beans, we count 55 actual lbs of N for our corn! If it was 40 bu yield, we count 40.
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Post by MoBuckChaser on May 31, 2017 18:55:48 GMT -6
If you put down the correct amount of fertilizer for the corn, the next year planting beans, needs no fertilizer! Hi Jerry, Thanks but I am estimating the amount of starter fertilizer needed for corn planted this year after soybeans were planted in the same field the prior year. Some of my Sand farmers see a real response when using Ammonium Sulfate when farming blow sand. You may want to look into that jerry.
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Post by Freeborn on May 31, 2017 18:56:58 GMT -6
I ain't going to tell anyone what is right and what is wrong. However, on my farm, I have done study after study with starter fertilizer, liquid and dry. I currently use liquid, a mix through Agro-Culture liquids. I use rebounders on my planter that puts that type of low salt starter in the row with the corn seed, not 2" to the side like dry fertilizer planters do. Its called pop up starter. I have experimented with 12 gallons per acre down to zero gallons per acre. I can tell you 2 years in a row, no real yield advantage at harvest, no matter what amount of starter I used. The only difference was maybe a pound or two less in test weight in the corn with no starter, and a few points wetter in moisture. But I still use it to deliver my micro's in furrow and not broadcast for all the weeds to use. Edit: as far as nitrogen credits goes. We use the bean yield from the year before. If we had 55 bu beans, we count 55 actual lbs of N for our corn! If it was 40 bu yield, we count 40. Thanks Mo, there are beers coming your way this summer when I come over to look at your planter.
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Post by MoBuckChaser on May 31, 2017 19:02:06 GMT -6
I ain't going to tell anyone what is right and what is wrong. However, on my farm, I have done study after study with starter fertilizer, liquid and dry. I currently use liquid, a mix through Agro-Culture liquids. I use rebounders on my planter that puts that type of low salt starter in the row with the corn seed, not 2" to the side like dry fertilizer planters do. Its called pop up starter. I have experimented with 12 gallons per acre down to zero gallons per acre. I can tell you 2 years in a row, no real yield advantage at harvest, no matter what amount of starter I used. The only difference was maybe a pound or two less in test weight in the corn with no starter, and a few points wetter in moisture. But I still use it to deliver my micro's in furrow and not broadcast for all the weeds to use. Edit: as far as nitrogen credits goes. We use the bean yield from the year before. If we had 55 bu beans, we count 55 actual lbs of N for our corn! If it was 40 bu yield, we count 40. Thanks Mo, there are beers coming your way this summer when I come over to look at your planter. I always have beer. No need to bring any. But getting back to planting and fertilizing corn. You can use the best of everything and still have terrible problems. We are seeing it first hand with huge drown out spots in the fields and entire rows of corn no germinating. About 20% of the fields, and of course crop insurance does not kick in until above 20% loss. We are in heavy ground that just got 5" of cold rain in the past 2 weeks. Fields look like shit here! Sand farming looks better every year to me!
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Post by sd51555 on May 31, 2017 21:49:38 GMT -6
If I were staring at 6 acres of by-hand follow up N application, I'd do a soil test. The debate rages on when it comes to the N credit from legumes. Some say zero, some say "x". I'm convinced there is no hard and fast rule. The Hefty guys talk about doing a pre-sidedress nitrate soil test. It's not a full blown soil test. However, if you don't have one, I'd get one. In this case, knowing your organic matter will help.
Working backwards from that soil test, you'll know how much nitrogen you have to start, plus you can count ~25lbs/N/ac for every 1% organic matter you have. If you're shooting to put on 150 lbs for the season, you may only need 60, split it into two applications. Might save you a lot of time, money, and sweating.
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Post by MoBuckChaser on Jun 1, 2017 4:27:11 GMT -6
Nitrate test my work in Heffty Land, but they are considered not accurate over here, not any more accurate than saying what legumes give a guy for N credits.
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Post by Sandbur on Jun 1, 2017 6:22:18 GMT -6
Hi Jerry, Thanks but I am estimating the amount of starter fertilizer needed for corn planted this year after soybeans were planted in the same field the prior year. Some of my Sand farmers see a real response when using Ammonium Sulfate when farming blow sand. You may want to look into that jerry. Does much sulfur come from manure and if so, which kinds of manure? I need to ask some of my farmers this question.
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Post by Freeborn on Jun 1, 2017 8:17:38 GMT -6
If I were staring at 6 acres of by-hand follow up N application, I'd do a soil test. The debate rages on when it comes to the N credit from legumes. Some say zero, some say "x". I'm convinced there is no hard and fast rule. The Hefty guys talk about doing a pre-sidedress nitrate soil test. It's not a full blown soil test. However, if you don't have one, I'd get one. In this case, knowing your organic matter will help. Working backwards from that soil test, you'll know how much nitrogen you have to start, plus you can count ~25lbs/N/ac for every 1% organic matter you have. If you're shooting to put on 150 lbs for the season, you may only need 60, split it into two applications. Might save you a lot of time, money, and sweating. Help me with some math here. I have organic matter of 1.5%, which would tell me my soil can only hold 37.5 Lbs. of actual Nitrogen. If my goal is 150 Lbs. of actual nitrogen I would need more than 2 applications to get effective use of the nitrogen.
Fertilizing Actual Step Nitrogen Comment N-Credit 20.0 Prior Year Soybeans Pre-plant 40.5 Tilled into Ground Side Dress ?? All at once or 2-3 broadcast (need 90 Lbs. actual Nitrogen)
Total Nitrogen 150 Lbs.
I could probably get by with two final side dress applications of 45 Lbs. each. I'm thinking I could apply my second application around week 6-7 Post-plant. Can I drive over corn after 6 weeks and have it still rebound? If I could it would leave me with only one hand broadcast.
FB
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