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Post by Catscratch on Oct 7, 2018 13:05:52 GMT -6
How much for a piece? I girdled some ironwood to dry at a place I sold and never took the wood to build a self bow. But I would rather have osage. I'll tell ya what Batman. If I'm out cutting wood this winter... and come across a straight log... and decide to split it... and end up with an extra stave... we'll find a way to get it to ya. That's a lot of "if's"! Or you and your boy can come down this winter and cut your own logs to haul back. I'll give you a place to stay for the weekend.
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Post by Catscratch on Oct 8, 2018 19:24:32 GMT -6
A quick read this evening says I can superglue the crack in the backing layer, and also that any osage bow this short should be backed with sinew. I'm also realizing that the length of the power stroke is going to be short... much shorter than I had originally thought (8" to 10"). I was probably cranking it way to far.
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Post by jbird on Oct 9, 2018 6:48:31 GMT -6
Cat - just an idea here. Put a scale in line with your "string" and your "cocking mechanism". This will give you some idea of the energy you are asking the wood to handle. A scale like you use to weight your deer or the like would be more than sufficient. Then put marks to know how far back you need to draw the bow. This may help prevent overloading the bow and potentially causing it to fail......just an idea.
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Post by Catscratch on Oct 9, 2018 8:34:13 GMT -6
Thanks for the idea jbird. I don't have a scale but will come up with something to help figure this out.
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Post by jbird on Oct 9, 2018 9:07:24 GMT -6
It's just a suggestion...
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