Coda1
Full Member
Posts: 242
Likes: 303
Location: Hunting north of Staples, MN
Zone: 3B
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Post by Coda1 on Sept 19, 2020 8:07:30 GMT -6
Nice bio. Good to know more about you. Not sure where your land is......are you near Huntersville? Seems to me land is fairly priced in that area.
South of Huntersville between Nimrod and Staples. Compared to some other areas land isn't as high prices but it really isn't good for anything other then growing pine trees. Ideally I'd like to find some land closer with a little better soil and closer to the Twin Cities.
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Coda1
Full Member
Posts: 242
Likes: 303
Location: Hunting north of Staples, MN
Zone: 3B
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Post by Coda1 on Sept 19, 2020 8:14:55 GMT -6
I have not started yet as the dock is at the lake, I'll get a crack at it mid-week. I am working from the lake for most of the week but have a buddy up this weekend so i won't get a crack at it until Tuesday probably. Lots of good advise so here is my plan. - I plan on soaking the threads with WD40 a few times over a couple days
- I'll also give a few taps with the hammer when I am spraying
- I don't have an easy out so I need to pick one up so I'll do that
- I have a hand torch that should heat the bolt up without doing damage to the aluminum so I'll use that
- Once I have the bolt hot I'll give the easy-out a try.
- I have a impact driver I was thinking of using if the bit would fit. I thought the impact affect might loosen the bolt but the RPMS might be to high?
- If it doesn't come out I'll drill it out and see if I can't use a small chisel to split the edge of the bolt so I can grab and remove it.
That's the plan for now, I should have an update later in the week.
My thought is to get the heat on the aluminum instead of the bolt. That will make the aluminum expand away from the bolt. You just have to be more careful with how much heat your putting into it. Maybe with the corrosion on the bolt there might be a benefit to heating the bolt. I'd try heating the aluminum first and if that doesn't work then try heating the bolt.
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Post by Tooln on Sept 19, 2020 10:25:40 GMT -6
I have not started yet as the dock is at the lake, I'll get a crack at it mid-week. I am working from the lake for most of the week but have a buddy up this weekend so i won't get a crack at it until Tuesday probably. Lots of good advise so here is my plan. - I plan on soaking the threads with WD40 a few times over a couple days
- I'll also give a few taps with the hammer when I am spraying
- I don't have an easy out so I need to pick one up so I'll do that
- I have a hand torch that should heat the bolt up without doing damage to the aluminum so I'll use that
- Once I have the bolt hot I'll give the easy-out a try.
- I have a impact driver I was thinking of using if the bit would fit. I thought the impact affect might loosen the bolt but the RPMS might be to high?
- If it doesn't come out I'll drill it out and see if I can't use a small chisel to split the edge of the bolt so I can grab and remove it.
That's the plan for now, I should have an update later in the week. I'd modify your plan just a little. Don't hear the bolt, you don't want that to expand. You want the aluminum around it to expand.
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Post by Freeborn on Sept 25, 2020 17:35:25 GMT -6
Well, zero steps forward and 3 steps back. I purchased a set of IRWIN bolt extraction bits and sure enough I broke one of them off in the bolt I am trying to extract. These bits use reverse threads so I'm hoping if I can get a drill bit started maybe it will back itself out. We will see. I can see that I need a better set of drill bits, something that will drill into harden steel. Anybody have a recommendation on a brand or type of drill bit that will drill into hard steel?
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Post by wiscwhip on Sept 25, 2020 18:23:52 GMT -6
The slowest RPM you can still get it to cut at, regardless of the drill bit. That said, cobalt is the lowest "grade" of bit material I would consider for any kind of metal work. Cleveland makes some decent stuff.
In case you were wondering, I worked as a metal fabricator and have been in the industry for 33 years, it has been only the last 5 that I have been behind a desk. Stainless steel, carbon steel, and aluminum. I'm actually shocked you didn't get it out if you heated it up while using the easy-out.
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Post by Freeborn on Sept 25, 2020 18:34:55 GMT -6
The slowest RPM you can still get it to cut at, regardless of the drill bit. That said, cobalt is the lowest "grade" of bit material I would consider for any kind of metal work. Cleveland makes some decent stuff.
In case you were wondering, I worked as a metal fabricator and have been in the industry for 33 years, it has been only the last 5 that I have been behind a desk. Stainless steel, carbon steel, and aluminum. I'm actually shocked you didn't get it out if you heated it up while using the easy-out.
Yep, I heated it but it still would not break free. This bolt has been a problem for years, I think the threads may have gotten damaged at one point so it may be crossed threaded. Once I get that tool out I’ll see if I can drill it out.
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Post by Catscratch on Sept 25, 2020 19:03:11 GMT -6
Are there any machine shops in the area? Maybe go to one and ask for a Carbized Bull Nosed End Mill. Tell them what you have going on and see if they will give you something.
If not revert back to drilling out next to it and going with a larger bolt to fill the hole.
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Post by Foggy on Sept 25, 2020 20:29:25 GMT -6
Not sure how hard an easy-out is.....but that is gonna be tough to drill or mill. Gotta find something harder than the broken easy-out. Then....as said.....go slow. I'm glad I'm not in your shoes today. In the meantime....soak that dude in oil. I sure like Fluid Film.....it's the Nose Jammer of penetrating oils. .
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Coda1
Full Member
Posts: 242
Likes: 303
Location: Hunting north of Staples, MN
Zone: 3B
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Post by Coda1 on Sept 26, 2020 12:09:17 GMT -6
Well that definitely went from bad to worse. I'm guessing the Irwin extractor was made in China. That might be part of the problem. Not sure what the best way to remove it. You could try a cobalt drill and might get lucky and get it out. I removed a broken drill at work yesterday with a carbide endmill. Carbide is very brittle and won't work very good if drilling by hand and you would likely break it off also and have a even bigger mess. My best guess would be to try a carbide burr in a Dremel tool. You will likely break a few of them trying to get thru it but as long as your cutting a bigger hole then the bit you should be able to pull the broken pieces out. If it is a thru hole maybe you could take a punch and try to pound the bolt thru. This would completely destroy any threads so you would have to find a way to repair the threads afterwards. Might have additional collateral damage also.
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Post by Foggy on Sept 26, 2020 17:51:39 GMT -6
Well that definitely went from bad to worse. I'm guessing the Irwin extractor was made in China. That might be part of the problem. Not sure what the best way to remove it. You could try a cobalt drill and might get lucky and get it out. I removed a broken drill at work yesterday with a carbide endmill. Carbide is very brittle and won't work very good if drilling by hand and you would likely break it off also and have a even bigger mess. My best guess would be to try a carbide burr in a Dremel tool. You will likely break a few of them trying to get thru it but as long as your cutting a bigger hole then the bit you should be able to pull the broken pieces out. If it is a thru hole maybe you could take a punch and try to pound the bolt thru. This would completely destroy any threads so you would have to find a way to repair the threads afterwards. Might have additional collateral damage also. I wonder If you could drill a hole from the "other side" of the "off wall" of that tube.....and then into the precise location of that broken EZ-out? Then drive the EZ-out out with a long punch......and get a do-over with a better tool or a bigger drill bit. Edit: if that fails.....I gotta wonder if that welded on plate is the only thing that is threaded.....and not the tube to which it is welded onto. (?) If that is the case....then you could grind off the weld and remove that threaded plate and replace it with another. Easy peasy....lemon squeeze. (if you have an aluminum welder).
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Post by wiscwhip on Sept 26, 2020 18:18:08 GMT -6
Well that definitely went from bad to worse. I'm guessing the Irwin extractor was made in China. That might be part of the problem. Not sure what the best way to remove it. You could try a cobalt drill and might get lucky and get it out. I removed a broken drill at work yesterday with a carbide endmill. Carbide is very brittle and won't work very good if drilling by hand and you would likely break it off also and have a even bigger mess. My best guess would be to try a carbide burr in a Dremel tool. You will likely break a few of them trying to get thru it but as long as your cutting a bigger hole then the bit you should be able to pull the broken pieces out. If it is a thru hole maybe you could take a punch and try to pound the bolt thru. This would completely destroy any threads so you would have to find a way to repair the threads afterwards. Might have additional collateral damage also. I wonder If you could drill a hole from the "other side" of the "off wall" of that tube.....and then into the precise location of that broken EZ-out? Then drive the EZ-out out with a long punch......and get a do-over with a better tool or a bigger drill bit. Edit: if that fails.....I gotta wonder if that welded on plate is the only thing that is threaded.....and not the tube to which it is welded onto. (?) If that is the case....then you could grind off the weld and remove that threaded plate and replace it with another. Easy peasy....lemon squeeze. (if you have an aluminum welder). I was going to mention removal and replacement of the plate as well, but the vast majority of people don't have the equipment or skills for that operation.
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Coda1
Full Member
Posts: 242
Likes: 303
Location: Hunting north of Staples, MN
Zone: 3B
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Post by Coda1 on Sept 26, 2020 19:06:42 GMT -6
Well that definitely went from bad to worse. I'm guessing the Irwin extractor was made in China. That might be part of the problem. Not sure what the best way to remove it. You could try a cobalt drill and might get lucky and get it out. I removed a broken drill at work yesterday with a carbide endmill. Carbide is very brittle and won't work very good if drilling by hand and you would likely break it off also and have a even bigger mess. My best guess would be to try a carbide burr in a Dremel tool. You will likely break a few of them trying to get thru it but as long as your cutting a bigger hole then the bit you should be able to pull the broken pieces out. If it is a thru hole maybe you could take a punch and try to pound the bolt thru. This would completely destroy any threads so you would have to find a way to repair the threads afterwards. Might have additional collateral damage also. I wonder If you could drill a hole from the "other side" of the "off wall" of that tube.....and then into the precise location of that broken EZ-out? Then drive the EZ-out out with a long punch......and get a do-over with a better tool or a bigger drill bit. Edit: if that fails.....I gotta wonder if that welded on plate is the only thing that is threaded.....and not the tube to which it is welded onto. (?) If that is the case....then you could grind off the weld and remove that threaded plate and replace it with another. Easy peasy....lemon squeeze. (if you have an aluminum welder).
I like the idea of drilling from the other side. As long as the location is correct it should work without any more damage.
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Post by Tooln on Sept 28, 2020 6:41:37 GMT -6
Coda1 hit the nail on the head with cheap China shit. Foggy's idea coming from the other side is great. If all else fails take to a machine shop or a good welder and have them cut that section out and replace it. Dremel or such with a carbide bit and grind it out also a good idea. Punching the extractor all the way through also an option. Good luck.
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Post by Foggy on Sept 28, 2020 7:19:11 GMT -6
Coda1 hit the nail on the head with cheap China shit. Foggy's idea coming from the other side is great. If all else fails take to a machine shop or a good welder and have them cut that section out and replace it. Dremel or such with a carbide bit and grind it out also a good idea. Punching the extractor all the way through also an option. Good luck. A final option is to do what Art suggests a good JPS would do.......and just shoot it out. . FORE!
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Post by Freeborn on Sept 28, 2020 7:30:58 GMT -6
Coda1 hit the nail on the head with cheap China shit. Foggy's idea coming from the other side is great. If all else fails take to a machine shop or a good welder and have them cut that section out and replace it. Dremel or such with a carbide bit and grind it out also a good idea. Punching the extractor all the way through also an option. Good luck. A final option is to do what Art suggests a good JPS would do.......and just shoot it out. . FORE! I'd rather shoot the guy who broke it. I was able to fire him so I did get some satisfaction from that. He had already tore a "Gull Away" off my lift a couple of years ago so after this I told him we did not need him anymore.
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